Saturday, January 21, 2017

How to replace the battery and volume button on a Nexus 5 Smart phone

     I recently changed out the volume button on a Nexus 5 Smartphone. I decided to replace the battery while in there. Both jobs require the same degree of dis-assembly.

                                             The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Flat blade and philips jeweler's screwdrivers
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Volume button and battery  
  • Cost of parts: Battery $16.99,  Button $11.75 
  • Time: 45 minutes   

Disassembly and removal

1) Power the phone down.
2) Remove the back of the phone. There are multiple catches in the back cover that fit into slots in the front. The back material is very flexible. Use the area of the power button as an entry point for the flat blade jeweler's screwdriver to pry apart those catches. I marked the position of these catches with some black electrical tape to aid in this separation.

It may help to know where the catches are located

 Continue to work around the cover, one by one unsnapping the catches. 

The first of many catches undone

When around to the opposite side from where started, work back to the top of the phone on both sides. Then simply pull the cover toward the bottom of the phone and it will come free.
2) Remove the upper larger plastic cover.  Remove 6 philips screws and the cover will pull off. 

Remove these six screws...

...And this cover is out of the way

3) Install the volume button. A horseshoe shaped part fits over a nub projecting in the phone and then slips behind the lower cover of the phone. 

4) Disconnect a flexible circuit board that runs along one edge of the battery. It plugs into a long narrow multi-connector above the battery. Move this away from the battery. 

pry up on both edges at once to unplug this connector

5) Unplug the battery. It plugs in with a smaller, same style connector as previous. 

unplug the battery connector

6) Remove the battery. The back may be sticky and require some gently prying with the straight blade screwdriver along several sides of the battery. 

Installation and re-assembly

1) Press the new battery into position and plug it in. 
2) Plug in the flexible board that runs over the left edge of the battery. 
3) Mount the top inner cover with the six philips screws.
4) Snap the back cover back in position. 
5) Charge and test. 


Tuesday, January 10, 2017

How to troubleshoot and replace the starter solenoid on a MTD and other lawn tractors

     If a lawn tractor fails to start, with a known good battery and starter, the next place to look is at the starter solenoid. This is the control part between the battery and starter. In this post I will show how to locate, troubleshoot and replace the starter solenoid in an MTD lawn tractor. The procedure would be similar in other brands of tractor, such as Cub Cadet, John Deere and Toro. Shown is MTD model 13AL667F118.

                                              The job at a glance

  • Tools:  7/16" (or 11mm) and 3/8"  socket and ratchet or wrenches. Voltmeter or test lamp
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Starter solenoid 
  • Cost of parts: $10 
  • Time: 45 minutes    
     This post assumes no voltage is present at the starter. We will backtrack to the solenoid and do some troubleshooting.

Dis-assembly to access Solenoid

1) Remove the knobs from the gear stick and speed selector. They simply rotate off in a counterclockwise direction.
2) Remove the two philips head sheet metal screws which fasten down the console cover.
3) Pull the cover out over the now knob-less levers.
4) Optional: Unplug the wire attached to the cover. Then it can be set out of the way. There is the solenoid mounted under the front of the seat.

location of solenoid


    The solenoid consists of a coil of wire that is energized when safety requirements are met and the ignition is turned into the start position. When the coil is energized a contact closes and the battery voltage passes over to the starter. We must establish first that the all important starter control signal is getting to the solenoid. 

1) Attach the positive lead of a voltmeter, or test lamp, to the control terminal. This is a spade connection on this solenoid. Clip a lead on the spade and put the ground on the battery negative or on one of the mounting bolts of the solenoid. Now turn the ignition to start and look for the 12V at the spade connection. If this is present proceed to the next step. If not, the control circuit will need to be examined for the fault. 

3) Confirm battery voltage at the incoming battery connection of the solenoid. If voltage is present proceed to the next step. If not look for a loose or corroded battery connection.

4) Place your meter or light at the output of the solenoid (right side). Turn the ignition switch and look for 12V here. If not present, replace the solenoid. If present, check for it at the starter. There could be a broken or loose connection at the starter. 

Removing and replacing the Solenoid

1) Disconnect the negative of the battery.
2) Unwire the battery with a 7/16 (or 11mm) connection from the large left side terminal of the solenoid. There are two wires that connect here. 

3) Disconnect the control wire from the spade connection.
4) Unbolt the output wire from the solenoid. 
5) Unbolt the two solenoid.mounting bolts to the bulkhead. These are 3/8". There is an additional small ground wire on the right side. 

Note the battery negative and additional ground wire

6) Remove the solenoid. 

Installing a new solenoid 

     This solenoid is not a difficult part to find.

1) Wire up the incoming side. There are two wires here. Turn the 7/16 nut finger tight.
2) Wire the output side.
3) Plug in the control wire to the spade connection. 
4) Mount the solenoid to the tractor bulkhead with the 3/8" bolts. Remember there is an additional ground wire on the right side.

Finishing up the re-assembly

1) Plug the wire into the underside of the console cover.
2) Place the cover into position over the two posts.
3) Install the two cover screws
4) Turn on the knobs
5) Re-connect the battery
6) Test 

Friday, December 23, 2016

Craftsman 1.5HP air compressor: Drain plug upgrade and oil change

     It happened again. A slight nudge with the bumper of a car and my Craftsman air compressor model 921.152100 is on it's side with a broken drain plug. This fragile part had broken before in a similar fashion. Although this is not a costly part, I was tired of dealing with this deficiency in an otherwise stout and reliable machine. In this post I will show you how I upgraded this part from fragile to unbreakable. And I'll throw in an oil change.

                                                     The job at a glance

  • Tools: Electric drill, 5/16 Allen wrench, Optional: channel-lock pliers and 15/16 socket.
  • Materials: 1/8 drill bit, Air compressor oil, pan for drain oil  
  • Parts: Steel set screw for plug: size 5/8 - 16    5/8" long    
  • Cost of parts:  $.75
  • Time: 45 minutes    

The arrow points to the missing drain plug

Preparing the plug

1) Find the correct size set screw for the plug. I took the broken part to a hardware store and used their thread matching jig to find it. The correct size is 5/8-18  (The "18" is the threads-per-inch count). The plug I found was 5/8" long but this dimension is not critical. 

2) Drill the hole for ventilation. The original plastic plug had two approximately 1/8" holes in it. We must vent this plug. Just use a sharp bit. This plug was recessed so I didn't need to center punch it.

The upgrade is ready

3) Wrap the plug threads in teflon tape.

Changing the oil

1) Lift the compressor over a drain pan and drain the oil. It won't take long, there isn't much in there. The manual omitted the oil volume required so I determined that by weighing the used oil in the machine. I measured it at 38 grams in a one time attempt to establish exactly how much oil to add.

2) Optional: The owners manual instructs to remove the sight glass to drain the remaining oil. With channel lock pliers and a 15/16 socket drain the rest of the oil.  I measured a mere 4 grams. This is hardly worth the trouble but the manual recommends it so I did it. Reinstall the sight glass.  

3) Fill with fresh oil. I weighed 42g of oil and drew it into a syringe to determine volume. It is 45cc or 1 1/2oz.  Fill and make sure it is level with the center of the sight glass. I put a sticker on the top of the compressor with the correct volume of oil to add to assist me in future oil changes. I try to change the oil once a year.

4) Install the ungraded drain plug. Don't over-torque.

A 5/16" Allen wrench will now tighten our plug

5) Test. Air does flow out of the plug. No leaks and good to go. Let's inflate some tires!


Tuesday, December 20, 2016

How to troubleshoot and replace the starter on an MTD riding mower

     This post details how to troubleshoot and replace the starter on an MTD riding mower model 13AL667F118. This procedure would be similar on many other brands of riding mowers with Briggs and Stratton engines, such as John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro and more. This is not a difficult job.

                                                    The job at a glance

  • Tools: 1/4", 7/16" (or 11mm) and 1/2"  socket and ratchet or wrenches. 
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Starter   
  • Cost of parts: $30 (aftermarket)- 73 (OEM) 
  • Time: 45 minutes    


The starter is located on the right side of the Briggs and Stratton engine. 

1) Remove the plastic cover for the pinion gear. It is held on by two 1/4" hex head screws.

The pinion cover screws

2) With the cover off,  try to start the engine and watch for movement of the pinion gear and turning of the flywheel. If the gear moves upward but the flywheel doesn't turn,  there may be an engine problem, perhaps even a seized piston. If the starter turns the engine and it won't start, the starter is good. If the starter appears to be dead, move on to step 3.

3) Unwire the red power (B+) cable from the starter. This wire is not electrically hot until the ignition switch is turned to the start position. It is held on by a 7/16" (11mm will also fit) nut affixed to a stud on the side of the starter.

Unbolting the starter


     With the lug unwired, this is a good time to confirm that it is the starter that is faulty. There are other upstream possibilities for an engine that fails to start. Attach the positive of a voltmeter (or test lamp) to the lug. Attach the negative lead to an engine mounting bolt. Now try to start the engine and troubleshoot as follows:  

12V present at the lug: Unless the engine is seized, the starter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

12V is present at the end of wire: replace starter

12V not present at the lug: The problem is upstream. The starter solenoid and/or the control circuit will need to be tested. This will be considered in another blog:
Back to removing the starter: 

4) Unbolt the starter. Use a 1/2" (or 13mm) socket to unbolt the starter from the engine. There is a bracket on the left side bolt that is used to as a wire guide. Note the routing of the wire before removing.

Remove two half inch bolts and it's out

5) Remove the starter. 

6) Find a replacement motor. See the end of the blog for possible replacements. 


1) Mount the new starter with the two 1/2" (or 13mm) mounting bolts. Be sure to place the bracket correctly on the under the left side bolt. Snug these bolts up good. They provide the starter ground connection

2) Mount the power wire to the starter with the 7/16 (or 11mm) socket. 

3) Test the starter. 

4) If all is well place the cover back over the pinion gear with the two 1/4" screws.



Friday, December 2, 2016

How to repair a broken chip-type ignition key

    I was surprised when a family member handed me a two piece remote access chip-type ignition key. I knew this key would cost $350 to replace so I was going to do all I could to put it back together again. This is a Toyota key.

The plastic holder of the metal key had broken apart and separated. I was amazed at how little of the cut, metal portion of this key actually overlapped with the plastic part.  My first thought was that this could be simply snapped together again.

Just slip it back into the broken slot. Good enough....right?

The First Try

     I tried to fix this with minimum effort. The metal top of the key snapped very snugly into the plastic holder. Then the back cover snapped over that and made a quite tight fit. Surely this would hold together. On the second or third ignition turn it came apart.

The Second Try

    I should have glued the broken seam back together. Yeah, that's why it came apart again. So I got out some used super glue, snapped the key back in the slot and glued the seam. I clamped it together and let it dry awhile. I have seen super glue hold broken parts together many times. This time it held for about 3 days before I had the two pieces back in my hand again.

The Third Try

     I figured it out. I didn't apply glue on enough of the surfaces of the key. Surely more glue was all that was needed. I bought a fresh pack of glue. That old glue maybe wasn't good anymore.  I glued it and clamped it for the last time. This time jut two turns of the ignition put it back in my workshop.

The Fourth (and final?) Try

     I had been turning over the idea of a mechanical bonding of the the parts for awhile and now it was time to carry out that plan. I decided to drill though the casing and the metal of the key and basically bolt it together. I decided that size four hardware would be too dainty so I used #6. The head of the Philips screw would rest flush against the flat surface of the damaged plastic. Then the back cover would snap over it. Here are the steps that proved effective:

1) Insert the metal portion back into the plastic holder and reassemble the key.

2) Carefully center punch the plastic back of the key.  I used a spring-loaded punch to help center the hole in the plastic portion. Then I drilled through the back plastic part.

3) Remove the metal portion from the assembly.

4) Drill through the rest of the plastic.

5) Drill the metal part of the key. This is the tough part. The drill bit left a mark on the metal portion of the key. I punched that and used a sharp drill bit to drill a precise hole. I used a 9/64" drill bit for the hole. The #6 screw would be a close fit.

The tough part of this job is underway

6) Re-assemble the whole key and check for good alignment on the hole. Make sure the screw goes through the hole cleanly. If not remove material from either part to make it fit. Test fit the hardware.I would have to flatten the head of the screw on a bench grinder and grind out the under surface of the back of the key to make the cover snap over it.

ready for the hardware

7) Measure the length needed for the screw. I was using an acorn (or "cap") type nut so I had to be sure the length was right so it would not bottom out when tightened. Also account for plain and lock washers. In this case the nut would have to tighten against a sloping surface. I had to taper the washers on a grinder to make it sit flat and hold.

8) Cut the screw to length. I placed a nut with a back-up nut at the cut-off point. Then I put it in a vice and cut it off cleanly with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel Tool.

9) Assemble the key with the hardware fix.

Note the flattened screw head and tapered washers

10) Test. This repair is going to hold up. This key will be stronger than it originally was. I have seen a screw used in other remote access keys,


Monday, November 21, 2016

How to replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt and Pontiac G6

This post covers a front end brake job an Chevrolet Cobalt and Pontiac G6 made from 2005-2010. There are likely more GM models that have the same or very similar set-up. Shown is a 2006 Cobalt.

                                                          The job at a glance
  • Tools: 19 and 15, 14mm sockets, breaker bar, ratchet, large (5") C-clamp, wire brush, rasp
  • Materials: Caliper grease, brake parts cleaner, lacquer thinner, rags, wire, dust mask. 
  • Parts: Set of brake pads and rotors.   
  • Cost of parts: ceramic pads: $24 (Car Quest)  Rotors: 35ea
  • Time: 2 hours


1) Break the lug nuts on the front wheels (19mm), Jack up the front and remove the wheels. I like to use a floor jack on the middle of the front cross member with a 2 x 4 to spread the weight. Set down on jack stands or other supports. 

2) Clean the brake calipers and rotors with brake parts cleaner. Wear a dust mask during this part.

3) Remove the two caliper bolts with a 14mm socket and ratchet. I like to use a 3/8" socket with an adapter up to 1/2" and a half inch ratchet.

4) Remove the caliper. This one does not hold the brake pads so it will slip right off.

off comes the pad-less caliper

5) Support the caliper out of the way, by hanging it with a wire from the strut spring,

6) Retract the piston. Use the large c-clamp, with one end on the brake pad and the other on the outside of the caliper, to force the piston all the back into it's bore. Then remove the clamp and the old inboard brake pad. Check the level of the brake reservoir as you do this to prevent a messy overflow.

7) Check out the caliper pins. If they do not move freely they should be removed, cleaned and re-lubed or replaced. Check the caliper pin boots for wear and tear and replace if necessary.

Check the caliper pins for free movement and boot integrity

8) Remove the pad holders (aka the caliper mounting bracket) by removing two 15mm bolts. Be ready to apply some muscle or a large breaker bar. These are torqued pretty good.

This bracket is torqued!

9) Remove the rotor. It may be necessary to tap it loose with a hammer. If so, use a dust mask.

10) Clean the contact surface of the hub with the rotor. Use a wire brush and file to remove any rust build up. Wipe clean and lightly lube with general purpose grease to ease in future disassembly.

Take some time to clean up the surface of the hub


1) Load the caliper holder with new hardware (if desired) and pads. My pads came with new hardware so I used it. Pry off the old clips and apply some caliper grease to all contact surfaces of the new hardware for ease of assembly and quiet operation. Install hardware. Install the new pads. Again, apply caliper grease or anti-squeal compound to the part of the backing plates on the pads that will contact the face of the piston (inboard side) and the ears of the caliper (outboard side). It doesn't hurt to also apply some to the piston face and the parts of the caliper that will contact the outboard shoe. Snap the two pads into place. It may be necessary to tap them in with a few taps from a hammer and big straight blade screwdriver.

2) Check the separation of the calipers now by slipping them over the rotor. Widen the gap if necessary to fit over the rotor.

3) Mount the new or re-ground rotor. But first clean up the surface of the wheel hub with a wire brush and solvent such as lacquer thinner. A little grease on these surfaces isn't a bad idea. You may need to take the rotors off again someday! Holding the rotor in place with one lug nut sometimes is helpful during installation of the caliper.

4) Mount the now loaded pad holder. Bolt it in place with the two 15mm bolts. Snug them up evenly and alternately and torque to a sizable 80 ftlbs.

5) Bolt the caliper into place with the two 14mm caliper bolts. If you didn't retract the piston all the way earlier, do it now. A bit of fresh grease on the piston contact surface is a good idea. Torque to 25 ft lbs.

6) Repeat all steps on the passenger side.

7) Test the brake operation. I like to have a helper apply the brakes as I try to turn the hub with a screwdriver. This is also a good way to check caliper release with brakes off.

8) Jack it up and mount the wheels.

9) Test drive. 


Monday, November 14, 2016

2011 Whirlpool washer fails to drain: how to troubleshoot and fix the problem

      A 2011-made Whirlpool washer (model WTW4930XWO) left our clothes wet, failing to fully drain and spin them out.  Once it ended a wash attempt with the tub full of water. At the end of a wash cycle, the "spin" LED was lit instead of  "done." These late model top-load washers, know as "vertical modular" machines in the industry, are computer controlled. Some Kenmore and Maytag nameplates also may be very similar.  The post is split into four sections that can be used independently of each other. First is how to check the drain pump for obstructions; second is how to use the on-board diagnostic tool; third is how to troubleshoot the control board with a meter and the fourth is how to replace the control board. Or it can be read as an entertaining narrative. Thanks for having a look and I hope it helps.

     The problem began after the backing on a bathroom rug fell apart in the washer, so I naturally thought the drain pump or sump was plugged up with small pieces of the rug. Let's take this apart and check for blockage.

Checking the drain pump and sump for blockage

1) Unplug the machine and shut off the water valves. Pull it off the wall far enough to access the back cover. 

2) Drain the water out of the machine. Pull the drain hose out of the wall drain pipe and empty into a catch pan. I found the drain hose fit into my shop vac hose (in wet mode) and I sucked the water out that way. 

3) Remove and check the drain hose. First place a catch pan under there in case water remains in the tub and drain line. A vice grip pliers works well for this. Remove the clamp and pull it off the drain fitting; Check the hose for obstructions. It's not a bad idea to flush it out with a garden hose.

4) Remove the six 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws holding the back cover. There is also a small plate on the upper left that must be removed (one 1/4" screw).

5) Remove the clamped on end of the inner hose from the back cover. Squeeze it with a pliers and push it inward.

Squeeze and push this fitting inward to remove the back cover

6) Remove the back cover and set it out of the way.

7) The pump is now visible. If desired, remove the short inner drain hose from the pump assembly. Depress the clamp and move it out of the way and pull off the hose. Check it for obstructions and not a bad idea to flush it with a garden hose or at the sink.

8) There are several ways to get a look inside the pump. There are 5 Philips head screws holding the pump to the sump above. These can be removed and the pump will drop down. Or do as I did and remove three 5/16" hex head screws holding the pump to the bottom of the drum. Two are visible and one is behind the pump and must be found by feel. Support the pump to prevent it from hitting the floor when the last screw comes out.

The third 5/16" screw is not visible behind the pump

9) Unscrew the pump from the sump and inspect. I found it very clean in there. The problem is elsewhere on this machine. Reassemble the pump and install. I opted to leave the back off to aid in troubleshooting later.

View of the 5 screws to remove to separate the pump from the sump

A clean sump. No blockage here. Pump impeller (in background) also clean

Troubleshooting the drain problem with on-board diagnostics

     This machine is computer controlled and has some on-board diagnostic features that utilize the cycle dial and LEDs to aid in troubleshooting. There is a service guide behind the front cover of the machine that details how to use this feature as well as troubleshoot components of the machine. The steps outlined below are clearly explained in the technician's repair guide that is packed inside the machine.

The manual is found in a zipper bag taped behind the front cover 

1) Put the machine into diagnostic mode. All LEDs should be off. The following dial turns must be completed quickly, in under 6 seconds. Turn the cycle dial counterclockwise any number of clicks. Then turn it clockwise three clicks, counterclockwise one click and then clockwise one click. If done correctly, all LEDs (except "lid lock") should be flashing together. 

2) Manually test the drain pump. We are already suspicious of the drain pump circuit, so we are going to go right to the "manual mode." This will allow us to turn the drain pump on and off manually to pinpoint the problem part. Also, the "spin" light being on at the end of wash cycle is itself a customer view-able fault code. It is indicates a "long drain fault." This occurs when the water level does not change despite 10 minutes in drain. This could also have been found in the "fault code display" diagnostic mode. 

3) Select manual mode. Turn the cycle dial a click at a time until the "spin" and "done" lights are on. That's just three clicks to get there.

4) Activate the manual mode. Simply hit the start button to activate. All LEDs will go off. 

5) Go to the drain pump test mode. Rotate the dial clockwise until the "rinse," "spin" and "done" lights are on. That's seven clicks.

Seven clockwise clicks later, we're in the drain pump test position

6) Run the pump. Press start and the three LEDs with flash and the pump will run...unless there is trouble in that circuit. We have trouble. On the very first try, it failed to come on. Then with more attempts, it did come on. This is consistent with what we saw when washing loads. Sometimes the pump would run and sometimes not. We need to get at the control board, the central hub of the machine to troubleshoot further. 

Dis-assembly to troubleshoot at the control board

     The control board is directly behind the cycle dial. The control console must be separated from the machine to get at it. Note: the live circuit troubleshooting depicted is only for demonstration purposes. It should only be attempted by persons trained to work safely on live 110VAC circuits. 

1) Unplug the machine. 

2) Slip a putty knife between the surface of the machine and far end of the operator console. There is a spring catch under there. Feel for it with the putty knife. It will push back against the knife. Push in and lift to disengage the console. Repeat on the other side.

The correct position of the putty knife

3) Remove a screw from each of the back corners of the console.

4) Lift the console up and lay it down on the top of the machine. The control board is encased in a white plastic vented cover.

The control board, jammed packed with electronics

5) Plug the machine back in and put into diagnostics mode and then manual mode and turn on the pump. The LEDs are flashing but the pump is not running.

5) Troubleshoot the drain pump circuit. The easiest part to check first is the pump output of the control board. This is found at pin 3 of J16. This is the largest connector at the top of the board. When the drain pump is commanded to run, this output must go high (120V).  With the negative meter lead at neutral (Pin 3 of connector J7) and positive at pin 3 of J16 we get no output voltage. The problem is on the control board. I considered replacing the relay but we needed this washer running quickly. I may attempt to get a relay at a later date in order to have a spare board. By no means is it certain that the relay is the problem. There are other possibilities, such as a power supply problem or even the microprocessor.

The drain pump output of the control board. 

How to replace the control circuit board

1) Unplug the machine.

2) With the console separated from the body of the washer, unplug all connectors from the board. They all have locking latches that must be released and several of them are very tight in their sockets. Considerable rocking of the plug in the socket is needed while struggling to release two latches on several of these sharp edged rectangular plugs. Several have panel fasteners holding the wiring into position.

These large plugs have double catches and are very tight...and sharp. Ouch!

3) Remove the board. First remove two screws holding down the board. Then lift the board up until the angle is high enough to allow a tab on one end to slip out of slot behind the console. 

4) Get a replacement control board. I found a used board on E-Bay for $64. I considered the cost of a new board, over $250, prohibitive considering this was a $350 machine in 2011

5) Install the board. Slip the tab into the slot and rotate down until flush with the console. Install the two mounting screws. Plug in the board and route the wires and seat the wiring fasteners. 

6) Slip the console back over the back plate and rotate down into place until the spring clips snap into position. Install the two back corner screws.

7) Plug in the machine and turn on the water valves. 

8) Do a small test load. Problem solved.

Saturday, November 12, 2016

How to replace the wiper motor in a 1.8L Toyoya Corolla, Matrix or Pontiac Vibe

     This post details steps-by-step how to remove and install the wiper motor in some Toyota-made vehicles, such as the Corolla, Matix or Pontiac Vibe and possibly more, made from 2009-2013.

                                                              The job at a glance
  • Tools: 10, 15mm sockets, 12mm box end wrench 
  • Materials: electrical or other tape 
  • Parts: wiper motor    
  • Cost of parts: $75-120 
  • Time: 2 hours


1) Mark the position of the wipers by applying tape. This is important to aid in re-assembly.

2) Remove the protective plastic caps covering the wiper arm nuts.

3) Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the wiper arm nuts.

4) Remove the wiper arm. Gently tapping with hammer on the end of the stud may jar them loose. Protecting the stud threads with a nut is a good idea when tapping. Sometimes a wiper puller will be needed. Note that the two arms are different. The passenger side arm is curved at the bolt end.

The wiper arm shaft

5) Remove the left side black plastic part of the wiper cover. The cover is in two pieces. The left side piece will come out first. There are panel fasteners at each corner that must come off. Push down in the middle of this two part fastener and the pry up to remove the outer part. Now jerk upward to dislodge the panel. There are fasteners at intervals along it's length that are molded into the underside of the cover. Remove the small cover that is over the brake fluid reservoir. Unsnap the weatherstrip from this cover and to the right end of the right end cover. Then the longer left side cover can be removed along with the entire weatherstrip.

panel fastener detail: push down center and pry outside

unsnap the cover with an upward jerking motion...

Then pull off the small cover over the brake reservoir...
Remove the entire left side cover

6) Remove the right side cover. Simply unsnap the built in fasteners and pull it off the wiper assembly.

7) Unplug the electrical connector to the motor. If desired test the five wires for correct voltages in the wiper "on" position. In low speed the correct voltages are Green:12V, Blue: 12V, Red: 0V
White/black stripe: 0V, Black: 12V. A high signal on the black wire is needed to energize the low speed windings in the motor. In high speed the correct voltages are Green:12V, Blue: 12V,   Red:12V, White/black stripe:0V,  Black: 0V.  A high signal on the red wire energizes the high speed windings.

8) Unbolt the wiper assembly. Remove two 10mm mounting bolts and slide the assembly to the left until it disengages from a bracket to the rear. Remove from the vehicle.

9) Remove the motor. Note the orientation of the linkage in the "park" position. The lower link that attaches to the motor shaft will be parallel to the upper linkage. Place a 12mm wrench on the motor shaft nut and tap it loose with a hammer. Turn it off by hand. Now place a large straight blade screwdriver behind the lower linkage and tap it off the motor shaft. Unbolt the three 10mm motor mounting bolts. Remove a wire tie and wiring fastener and remove the motor from the assembly.

Tap off the 12mm nut

Tapping the linkage off the motor shaft

The three 10mm motor mounting bolts can now be removed


1) Install the three 10mm motor mounting bolts. Make sure the wiring is routed correctly and affix the plug and secure the wire with a wire tie.

2) Mount the linkage on the motor shaft. It is important to maintain correct orientation here. Remember, in the park position this linkage is directly behind, that is parallel, to the larger front-most linkage. Serrations on the linkage and motor shaft will lock these into position once seated.

Take care to align the linkage correctly on the motor shaft

3) Install the 12mm bolt on the motor shaft. Since the linkage move as the nut is tightened, simply move it back to the park position when done.

4) Mount the linkage in the car. Remember to start left and seat the rubber grommet at the rear into the slot and then move the linkage to the right. It is far enough right when the bolt holes line up with the threaded holes below. Tighten up the 10mm assembly mounting bolts. Snug them up until the vibration grommet starts to depress.

5) Plug in the wiring connector. If desired, the job can be tested now. Mount the wiper arms and run it to check operation before final assembly.

6) Mount the right side cover. First sandwich it into position with the windshield, then snap the little molded in fasteners into their corresponding holes in the metal below.

7) Snap the left side cover into place over the previously mounted right side cover.

8) Fit the brake reservoir cover and the weatherstrip back into position.

9) Install the two corner panel fasteners. Fit them together loosely first and then insert and press the center part down until flush with the outer part.

10) Install the wiper arms. Line them up with the tape on the windshield and push down on the serrated studs until fully seated. Remember, the curved arm goes on the passenger side.

11) Install the 14mm wiper arm mounting bolts.

12) Install the plastic bolt covers.

13) Test

     Though there are minor differences from OEM, Amazon lists these are suitable replacements