Thursday, October 4, 2018

How to Replace the Water Pump 2.2L Toyota Camry 1997-2001


A major coolant leak signaled that the water pump in a 2001 Toyota Camry had failed. In the 2.2L engine the pump is driven by the timing belt.  This post will cover replacing the entire pump assembly: both pump and housing. The front of the engine must be torn down to replace the pump. Here is a link to a post on front end tear down on this engine:
http://www.originalmechanic.com/2018/05/how-to-replace-timing-belt-1997-2001.html

                                                        The job at a glance



  • Tools:  Floor or other jack, jack stands, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive metric sockets 10, 12, 14 and 19mm wratches and wrenches, large breaker bar, harmonic balancer remover or other puller, two 6mm x 70mm thread pitch 1.00 bolts.
  • Parts: Water pump and housing assembly
  • Materials: 
  • Time: 3 hours     

Disassembly


1) Remove the alternator, tear down the front of the engine and remove the timing belt. See link above.

2) Drain coolant by opening the radiator petcock. But expect some minor loss of coolant during later parts of this procedure.

3) Remove the timing belt tensioner and spring.



4) Remove the idler as it is in the way of removal of the pump.

5) Remove the alternator mounting bracket (12mm) and separate the connected  wiring.

6) Remove the upper radiator hose by pulling the clamp back and pulling it off. This is where some coolant loss will occur.

7) Remove the plastic piece of pipe housing the thermostat (two 10mm nuts) from the water pump.



8) Remove two 10mm nuts holding a bracket for the two outlet pipes to the right of the pump.
I used a 1/4" ratchet and 2 inch extension and a "U" adapter to get into the tight lower spot.



9) Unbolt three 10mm water pump to engine mounting bolts. These are easy to access but note, several nearby bolts on the pump only hold the two pieces of the pump together. Don't remove those.

View of mounting nuts shown on the new pump


10) Pull the pump off the engine. It may take some jiggling to separate the pump from the outlet pipes. 

Installation


1) Seat the small o-ring on the upper steel outlet pipe. Just a touch of grease on the outside diameter of the o-ring will help new pump slide over it.



2) Seat the larger o-ring into place in the groove on the pump where it mounts on engine.

3) Seat the flange-type gasket on the water pump where the lower steel pipe mounts on the pump housing. 

4) Check the engine mating surfaces with the pump and clean if necessary.

5) Mount the pump. Slide it over the pair of outlet pipes. When seated fully, turn in the three 10mm mounting bolts, evenly by hand. Snug up. Tighten the two 10mm lower outlet pipe nuts. Torque the three mounting bolts now to 78 in lbs.




Torque the three mounting bolts to 78 in lbs

6) Mount the thermostat housing and thermostat with two 10mm nuts. This is a good time to install an new thermostat. Do not over torque these on the plastic housing. 

7) Install the upper radiator hose and clamp.

8) Mount the alternator bracket, loosely for now, with a 12mm bolt.  This will fully torqued later when the alternator is mounted. 

9) Reinstall the timing belt and the rest of the front of the engine. 

10) Test for leaks. 


Sunday, May 27, 2018

How to Replace the Timing Belt 1997-2001 Toyota Camry 2.2L

    This post will take the reader through a front engine tear down of a 2.2L Toyota Camry with the 5S-FE engine featured from 1997 to 2001. The timing belt will then be removed and a new belt installed, with careful attention given to the timing positions of the the camshaft and crankshaft. Other jobs possible now with the engine apart are the front oil seals and the water pump replacement.


                                                      The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Floor or other jack, jack stands, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive metric sockets 10, 12, 14 and 19mm, wratches and wrenches, large breaker bar, harmonic balancer remover or other puller, two 6mm x 70mm thread pitch 1.00 bolts.
  • Parts: Timing belt 
  • Materials: 
  • Time: 1.5 hours      

Front Engine Disassembly


1) Disconnect the battery negative.

2) Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts, jack up the front and remove the wheel. Set down on stands or blocks. I like wood blocks.

3) Remove the splash cover in front of the crank shaft pulley. (two 10mm)

4) Remove the larger drive belt. Loosen the 14mm alternator pivot bolt and the 12mm alternator adjustment lock bolt. Then turn the 14mm adjustment bolt clockwise until the belt loosens enough to remove. 


Loosen the bolts indicated by the white arrows. Turn orange to remove belt.

5) Remove or set aside the alternator. This is optional, but recommended since it is quite easy and affords more room to work. Remove the two aforementioned bolts, unplug the wiring and unbolt the 10 mm battery plus connection. If desired it can be set aside, out of the way with wiring attached. 
6) Remove the front engine mount, sometimes called the "dogbone." Unbolt three 14mm mounting bolts and jiggle it out. 
7) Unplug a chassis ground.


Remove these three bolts and unplug the ground wire.


8) Remove the triangular shaped front engine mounting bracket. The top bolt is easy, but let's get into some detail on the much harder lower two bolts. This is a narrow spot, a mere 7 mm wide and using a socket that is too shallow will not allow the ratchet bar to clear and turn. Find some tools with a combined width of 5.5 to 6.5 cm (2.75"). Finding these ahead of time will save frustration in fitting an effective tool in there. I used a 14mm 1/2" drive socket along with a breaker bar to get the radiator side bolt broke. the back one took a 1/2" thin headed ratchet and the same  socket. Smaller tools will be needed to fully remove the bolts


These lower bolts are tough due to tight access
.

9) Remove the power steering belt. The difficulty is in loosening a 10 mm pivot bolt above the pump. I got in there with small tools, a 1/4" socket and ratchet with a small cheater pipe. Now the easier lower 10mm bolt, accessible with 3/8" ratchet, socket and 6 inch extension bar. Now move the pump forward to loosen and remove the belt.


Loosening the power steering pump pivot bolt  
10) Remove the upper timing cover. There are four 10 mm bolts of three different lengths used here. the lower one is a challenge. The upper firewall side bolt is very long and owing to it's great length and  a small arc of tool rotation, quickly becomes tedious to remove.  The other long bolt is also on top and the length is needed as it serves double duty as a wiring harness holder. With all four removed, jiggle the cover, with a very tight clearance up and out.

11) Place the engine in the top dead center timing position. This is best done by turning the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. See the timing section below for detail on this position.
  
12) Remove the crank pulley bolt. This 19mm bolt will likely be a challenge if you don't have air tools. I normally use a home-made fixture for this job, made out of 1/4"  angle iron.  It didn't work on this application. Instead, I was forced to use the "starter bump" method, and I was pleased with the results. Take precautions to disable the ignition (starting the car is a very bad thing in this situation). I found pulling the spark plug wires the easiest way.  Wire up a large breaker bar at a right angle to a substantial part. I used the lower control arm. Then give the starter a few taps. No One can be anywhere near that side of the car during this procedure! 


The breaker bar needs to be secured before bumping the starter


13) Remove the harmonic balancer. Likely you will need to use a puller as I did. If so you will need two bolts, 6mm x 70mm with a thread pitch of 1.00.

This is a steering wheel puller that worked great here

14) Remove the lower timing cover. This is easy with 4 accessible 10mm bolts to remove. Some wiring will need to be unclasped before the cover is removed.
15) Remove a small thin cup washer.
16) Loosen the tension pulley, move it downward, hold it there with a pry bar and tighten in that lowered position.
17) Slip off the timing belt.

Setting up the Timing Positions of the Cam and Crank Shafts


1) Set camshaft timing. The hole in the cam sprocket will align with a tick mark on the bearing cap behind it. It may help to check this by putting a small tool through the hole and feeling for the recessed tick mark.

The alignment marks for the camshaft

2) Set up the crankshaft timing.  These marks are very small, so here are some pictures to help find them.

The little bump must align with a mark on the sprocket....

...this is the tiny v-shaped timing mark


Installing the Timing Belt

1) Install the idler pulley if removed or replaced. Torque to 31 ft lbs.

The idler is torqued to 31 ft lbs


2) Install the tension pulley if removed or replaced. Do not torque at this time. Temporarily tighten it in the downward position as necessary to install the belt.

3) Install the belt. Start at the radiator side, keeping that side of the belt taut (slack free). Thread it through the other side and when fully positioned, release tension on the tension pulley only enough to take up the slack in the belt. Do not torque the belt at this time. This comes later.

Loosen the tension pulley to apply tension to the belt


4) Install the belt guide washer. The bowed side faces out.

5) Install the lower timing cover. Make note of the timing mark on the cover- 45 degrees before top dead center. I highlighted it with white paint for easier ID.

The mark highlighted in white is 45 degrees before TDC


6) Install the harmonic balancer.

7) Install crankshaft pulley bolt. It does not need to be torqued at this time.

8) Rotate the engine by hand 1 7/8 turns. At this point the mark on the harmonic balancer will align with the mark 45 degrees before top dead center on the lower timing cover. Now you can torque the tension pulley to 31 ft lbs.

9) Rotate the engine manually through two revolutions, making sure it turns freely and recheck all timing marks afterward.

 Reassemble the Front of the Engine


1) Lock the crank pulley down by some means and torque the pulley bolt to 80 ft lbs.

I locked it with a 1/4 angle bracket with 6mm x 70mm bolts


2) Install the upper timing cover.  There are four 10mm bolts of three different lengths. The two upper bolts are longest and a wiring harness holder slips over the end of the threads. The lowest bolt is shorter and the most difficult and will have to be started by feel. 

3) Secure the wiring harness to the end of the upper timing cover bolts. 

4) Install the front engine bracket with the three 14mm bolts. I could find no torque specified for these bolts. To assure alignment, it is advisable to start the dogbone mount bolts  before torquing the bracket.

5) Torque the three 14mm dog bone bolts to 47 ft lbs. 

6) Install the power steering belt. Use a pry tool to tighten the belt to proper deflection while tightening the lower 10mm mount bolt with a 3/8" ratchet with a six inch extension. 

7) Tighten the upper 10mm power steering lock bolt. This one is a struggle to reach. I used a 1/4" ratchet and socket. 

8) Install the alternator and drive belt. Tap in the long 14mm pivot and hand tighten. Install the 12mm
adjustment lock bolt and again hand tighten. Place the belt  and turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise until the belt deflection is correct. Tighten both pivot and lock bolt

9) Wire up the  alternator if it had been un-wired. 

10) Install the wheel well splash cover.

11) Install the wheel, set the car down, torque the lug nuts.

12) Wire up the battery and run the engine, checking for leaks. 

Monday, December 18, 2017

How to remove and install the front bumper cover and headlamps Subaru Legacy '09 to '13

This post will show how to remove the front bumper cover and headlamp assembly on a Subaru Legacy made from 2009 to 2013. Several of the bulbs in the headlamp assembly can only be replaced with the bumper cover and headlamp assembly removed..

                                                     The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Car ramps, 10mm socket and ratcher
  • Parts:  4 side marker and parking lamp bulbs W5W or Philips 168; 2 turn signal bulbs, W21W or Philips 7440; high beam headlamp is 9005; low beam headlamp is Osram 64210.
  • Time: 1.5 hours      

Replace Low and High beam Headlamps


1) Remove two panel fasteners holding the air inlet duct near the air filter at the right front corner. 



2) Remove the air intake duct above the passenger side headlamp  
3) There is now access to remove and replace the high and low beam headlamps on the passenger side. Replacing the low beam requires removal of circular plastic cover and release of a spring. Replace with 9005 and Osram 64210.  
4) Repeat on the driver's side. There are no additional parts to remove to access this side. 




Remove Bumper Cover

1) Drive the front of the car up onto ramps to make removal easier. 
2) Remove eight panel fasteners on the top of the cover.


The eight top fasteners are the easiest

3) Remove one panel fastener at each wheel well.
4) Remove nine panel fasteners under the front of the bumper cover. Remove three fasteners in the cutout opening at the front lower middle of the bumper cover. 
5) Pull the bumper cover out at the seam by the wheel well on each side. Give it a good jerk and it will separate from the catches.



6) Remove the cover and set it aside. 


    Remove headlamp assemblies

1) There are seven 10mm machine screws and two panel fasteners that will need to be removed.  There are two screws and one panel fastener on top that hold the headlamp assembly. There are five screws and a panel fastener that hold the bracket . Three screws are on the front, and two screws and on panel fastener hold the side of this bracket. Remove the lower fasteners first. 




Right side view of the passenger side fasteners



2) Remove the plastic bracket the encircles the headlamp assembly.


The five bracket screws. There is also a panel fastener on the left side


3) Pull the headlamp assembly out to allow access to all the bulbs. Here are the bulbs from innermost to outermost: 

High beam headlamp can be rotated out. Replace with 9005
Parking lamp W5W, replaced with Philips 168
Low beam headlamp behind white cover is Osram 64210
Turn signal is W21W replaced with Philips 7440
Side marker is W5W, replaced with Philips 168

Test the bulbs before reassembly. 


Reassembly

1) Mount the headlamp assembly with two 10mm screws and a panel fastener. Make sure to seat the alignment pin on the side first.  Be careful not to over-torque thescrews.

Seat the side alignment pin first

2) Mount the plastic bracket that encircles the headlamp assembly with five 10mm screws and a panel fastener. Start on the outside. Again, do not over-torque. 

3) Mount the bumper cover. Make sure the lower cover and wheel well sections are positioned correctly in relation to the vehicle mating surfaces before snapping the sides of the cover into place.
Snap the panel fasteners into place, making sure to maintain a quarter inch gap between the two pieces on insertion. A bit of lithium grease is helpful if the fasteners are sticking, especially on the lower ones subject to road grime. 


Wednesday, August 9, 2017

4wd not working Ford F150: How to replace the 4wd light switch

    I had an intermittent problem with the 4wd not engaging on my 2000 Ford F150. After resolving a loss of vacuum, the problem returned. The 4wd light switch proved to be the chief suspect. In fact this became quite obvious after removing the switch and examining the inconsistent operation. This video will detail troubleshooting, removal and installation.

                                                 The job at a glance 

  • Tools:  A floor or other jack, jack stands, 22mm wrench 
  • Parts: 4wd light switch Motorcraft part # 4L3Z-7E440-AB
  • Materials: none.
  • Cost of parts: $19.55
  • Time: 1/2 hour      

Checking signals during correct operation

     Since this is an intermittent problem, it is helpful to look at the vacuum and electrical signals when it is working and then during the malfunction. We will be looking at the 4WD solenoid, the actuator and the light switch.

1) Confirm that there is vacuum at the lower line entering the solenoids. This should always be present when the truck is running.


The solenoids


2) Confirm operation of the vacuum actuator. Start the truck and shift into 4wd. Check for actuator movement to the left (passenger side).  


The 4wd vacuum actuator


3) Confirm 12V at the socket for the left solenoid wire. Unplug the wiring connector from the 4wd solenoid and turn the ignition on. 

4)  Confirm the solenoid control signal at the socket for the right solenoid wire. This is a sink signal so hook up the test light backwards, the ground lead on the battery positive.  Start the truck and shift into 4wd. The truck is on stands and in park. 


The electrical signals


    The presence of these signals confirms that the 4wd light switch is working properly. 


Troubleshooting during a malfunction


    When the light failed to come on it was time to find where this problem originates. 

1) Check for vacuum. It was present at the input to the solenoid but not at the actuator. 

2) Check for ignition on 12V. It was present.

3) Check for the solenoid control signal. With the truck running in 4wd the solenoid-on signal was absent. 

     It was time to look at the 4wd light switch. This switch signals the control unit that the truck has been placed in 4wd.

Removing and testing the 4wd light switch


1) Locate the switch. It is on the right side of the transfer case, basically right under the shifter. Slip under the truck at about the middle of the passenger front door. 


The 4wd light switch


2) Unplug the switch. There are two keepers that must be pried apart simultaneously. Be careful not to snap them off. 

3) Turn the switch out with a 22mm open end wrench.

4) Test the switch. Testing soon revealed that this switch was the problem. Mechanically it would stick in most of the time and fail to have continuity.


The sticking switch


Installing the 4wd light switch

1) Find a replacement switch.

2) Turn the switch in with a 22mm open end wrench.

3) Plug in

4) Test

Thursday, July 27, 2017

4WD not working on a Ford F150: How to troubleshoot vacuum in the control circuit

When the 4wd suddenly stopped  working on my 2000 F150 I had to troubleshoot an unfamiliar problem. I reached for my Haynes manual, but it was You Tubers that gave me the best directions. The system described here, manual shift on the fly, involves a vacuum diaphragm, vacuum lines and solenoids, a reservoir and the 4wd light switch. Firstly, I resolved a loss of vacuum. Then I replaced the 4wd light switch to return the system to consistent operation. I cover this in another post.

                                                   The job at a glance 

  • Tools:  A floor or other jack, jack stands, 8 and 15mm sockets, ratchet, pry tool
  • Parts: None
  • Materials: Silicone  .
  • Cost of parts: None
  • Time: 1 hour      

Checking Operation

The first notice that there was a problem was the failure of the 4wd light on the dash to come on after shifting. But I was troubled by the question "was it really not working?" So I jacked up all four wheels and put it in 4 wheel. The front wheels did not turn in 4wd.
     Another way to check operation is to have a look at the vacuum actuator under the front of tbe truck. 
1) Jack up the front of the truck and set on stands.
2) Remove the cover from the actuator. Three 10mm bolts.
3) Start the truck and leave in park. Note the relative position of the actuator. It will be to the right.
4) Place the truck in 4wd. The actuator should move to the left. Mine did not move. 

 


 Checking for vacuum   


     Since vacuum plays such is such a big part in the show, I took a look early in troubleshooting. I opened up a line feeding one of the solenoids. Only the front of the truck needs to be up.
  
1) Unplug the electrical connectors from the two solenoids. Push down and wiggle loose.


2) Pull the vacuum lines out of the solenoids. The lower of the two is the supply.
3) Start the truck and check for vacuum. It should always be there, in four wheel or not.                       With the truck running, it wasn't there.

      Now we have to backtrack to find where the vacuum is and is not. We are going to look for, and inspect, the vacuum reservoir box.

4) Disconnect and remove the battery.
5) Unbolt and remove the battery box. (four 15mm bolts).
6) Separate a wiring harness from the box with a prying tool.
7) The smaller of the two reservoirs is for 4wd. Remove the supply line from it and check for vacuum here. It was present. 

The 4wd vacuum reservoir


    I thoroughly inspected this box and could find no crack. I put some low pressure compressed air into it and looked for air bubbles with a dish soap and water mixture. Once, I think I may have seen a bubble. It was that indefinite. I applied silicone to all the all the seams on the box as a simple remedy.. 


Testing 

    Hook the battery back up, without mounting, and test again for vacuum. It was now there at the inputs to the solenoid.

Reassembly

1) Mount the battery box. 
2) Snap the reservoirs back together and into mounting position. 
3) Mount and connect the battery.
4) Plug the vacuum lines back into the solenoids.
5) Plug the electrical connectors into the solenoids.




Thursday, April 27, 2017

How to remove and install the front bumper cover and headlamp assemblies '09-'13 Toyota Corolla

    I recently removed the front bumper cover and headlamp assemblies on my 2010 Toyota Corolla in order to replace the turn signal and side marker bulbs. This post will cover all three jobs.

                                                 The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Car ramps, 10mm socket or screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver
  • Parts:  2 side marker bulbs, BP194; 2 turn signal/parking light bulbs, BP3157NA ; high beam headlamp is 9005; low beam headlamp is 9006.
  • Cost of parts: BP194: $5.04 for 2; BP3157NA: 2.58ea; 9005: $13.59 for 2 ; 9006: $7.32 for 2
  • Time: 45 minutes     

Removal of the front bumper cover

     The side marker and turn signal bulbs are inaccessible until the headlamp assemblies are removed. The bumper cover conceals the headlamp assembly mounting bolts. We will start at the bottom as we remove the 16 various fasteners needed to remove the bumper cover. There are six fasteners on the bottom, two on each wheel well and six on top. 

1) Drive the car up onto ramps. This could be done on the ground, but with such low clearance, why?
2) Remove two 10mm screws under the passenger side corner. These merely attach to the wheel well cover.  
3) Remove two panel fasteners on the underside of the bumper. These are two piece. Pry out the center part and then remove the rest of the fastener. 




4) Remove the two 10mm screws under the drivers side corner.   
5) On each wheel well remove two fasteners. The lower one is an odd duck. It rotates ninety degrees and then pulls out, revealing its weird forked shape. Using a screwdriver, pry the bumper cover free of the wheel well cover. The upper is a tiny plastic screw that turns out, allowing the outer body of the fastener to come out. 



Separate the cover from the wheel well

6) Unsnap the bumper cover from the fender on each side. A small jerk is all it takes to separate the two pieces. 



7) Remove the six top fasteners. From the passenger side left, first comes a panel fastener, then a philips head screw with a rubber hood cushion built in and then a 10mm screw. Then remove the same three types on the driver's side.

The six top fasteners

8) Lift up and pull off the bumper cover. 




Removal of head lamp assemblies

      The head lamp assemblies are now accessible for replacement of the turn signal/parking lamp and side marker. The high and low beam headlamps are removable without taking off the bumper cover, but if replacing all bulbs anyway, this would be a great time. 

1) Remove three 10mm bolts, one top, one right and one on the side. 



2) Pull up on the plastic molding around the top screw and lift it up and over a protrusion.
3) On the front, lift up on the corner to free a locking tab that is snapped into a square cutout.

Lift up until the locking tab is released

4) Unplug all the lighting harnesses. They all turn about 30 degrees counterclockwise and then can be separated. 
5) Remove the head lamp assembly.

                                            Replace the light bulbs 


1) The side marker is BP194. Simply wiggle the old one out and insert a new bulb. Line up the slots and turn clockwise into the slot until it locks. 
2) The turn signal/parking lamp is BP3157NA. Wiggle out the old one and insert the new bulb. Line up the slots and turn clockwise into the slot until it locks. 
3) The low beam headlamp is a 9006.
4) The high beam headlamp is a 9005.


Install the headlamp assembly


1) Take care to seat the front corner of the assembly into the slot in the car. 
2) Snap the upper mounting hole over the protrusion.
3) Replace the three screws. The upper one is threaded for plastic while the other two are machine screws for metal. 
4) Repeat for the other assembly
5) Testing the lamps at this point would be a good idea. 

Install the bumper cover 


1) Place the cover up and over the mounting boss on the top of the car. It will then rest there. 
2) Snap the cover back into the fender.
3) Mount the six fasteners back on top. 
4) Mount the upper and lower wheel well panel fasteners on each side.
5) Mount the six fasteners back on the bottom in any order desired. 
6) All done

         

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

How to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump 1996-2002 Caravan, Voyager or Town and Country

This post will cover some fuel system maintenance on a 1996 to 2002 Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town and Country. These instructions cover both the fuel filter and fuel pump, but will be useful for either pump or filter replacement.

                                                The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Vice grip pliers, 10mm and 15mm wrench or socket and ratchet, strap wrench. Breaker bar may be needed. Also: Rags, pan to catch fuel 
  • Parts: Fuel filter, fuel pump 
  • Cost of parts: Filter $32; Fuel pump $58-$150 
  • Time: 2 hours    

Fuel system purge


This step is necessary to relieve the fuel pressure that exists throughout the system.

1) Remove the fuel pump relay. Locate it by removing the fuse and relay box cover in the engine compartment. The location is printed on the underside of the cover. Remove.



2) Attempt to start the van several times. When it fails to start and run the pressure is relieved.
3) Disconnect the negative of the battery.
4) Reinsert the relay. 

Fuel Filter removal


The fuel filter

1) Put the van on ramps or jack stands.
2) Place a jack and board under the fuel tank. The tank will need be lowered to access the pump and filter, which are atop the tank.
3) Remove the two 15mm strap bolts.



4) Lower the tank with the jack about 1 1/2 inches.
5) Disconnect the downstream fitting from the steel gas line. On this vehicle I had to squeeze the plastic insert while pulling back on the plastic fuel tubing of the filter assembly. A pliers such as a vice grip will help. Rust on the steel line under the insert made the job more challenging. I ended up cutting the tubing off longitudinally. 



6) Disconnect the two filter fittings from the fuel pump the same way. This is all plastic, so no corrosion to worry about. Have a catch pan ready for the inevitable fuel drip. 
7) Unbolt the filter canister from the mounting extrusion on the tank. This is 10mm bolt with a U-nut. Again, I encountered rust and had to cut the head off both the bolt and the nut. Make sure to take all precautions against sparks if this is needed. I sealed all gas lines, used a fan and had a fire extinguisher handy. 


I hope yours isn't this rusty!

8) Remove the old filter assembly. If not replacing the pump, move to fuel filter installation. If doing the pump continue...

Fuel Pump Removal

     I decided to replace the fuel pump as well at this time. The prep work is exactly the same as for the filter so this is an ideal time to knock off this job.


The fuel pump


1) Prep with steps 1-4 in fuel filter removal. 
2) Disconnect the two fuel lines from the pump by squeezing the plastic inserts and pulling the lines back. Have a pan ready to catch fuel.
3) Unplug the electrical connector. First release the locking tab with a dental pick or small screwdriver. Then move the tab to the right, and wiggle the connector free. 


This plug is tricky to unplug

4) Unscrew the lock ring atop the filter with a strap wrench. 


This strap wrench worked nicely

5) Clear off any dust or debris from the top of the pump and remove it. Angle it toward the front of the van and remove. It may have some gas inside so have the pan ready.


Fuel pump installation


1) If the new pump does not have the float attached, attach it using the original as a guide.
2) Slip the new o-ring on the pump
3) Install the pump. My aftermarket pump had an offset submersible filter that needed to be compressed on the way in. 
4) Turn on the lock ring. Make sure the o-ring is positioned properly. Align the protrusion on the pump with the notch in the tank while installing the ring. It won't turn in very far without using the strap wrench. Once the protrusion is seated in the notch, turn it on about as tightly as you can. 

Line up this protrusion with the notch in the ring on the tank

5) Plug in the electrical cable. The tab must be unlocked (moved to the right) going in and locked when seated.
6) Snap the two fuel lines into the pump. Put the color-coded inserts on the tank protrusions first. Turn them to align with the windows on the fittings on the end of the lines.  


Fuel Filter Installation

1) Mount the canister to tank with the 10mm nut. I used new hardware. 
2) Snap the two fuel lines into the pump. Put the color-coded inserts on the tank protrusions first. Turn them to align with the windows on the fittings on the end of the lines. 
3) Route the new downstream tubing part of the assembly under the front strap for the gas tank.
4) Snap the tubing into the steel gas line in the same manner as above.
5) Raise the tank but stop 1/4 from all the way up to allow some play to get the bolt started.
6) Start the 15mm strap bolts and then raise the tank the rest of the way. I put never-seize on the bolts.
7) Tighten the strap bolts.
8) Attach a ground strap from the filter to the front strap. 
9) Remove the jack.
9) Connect the battery and test for leaks.