Monday, December 9, 2019

How to Wire a Low Cost Double Din Head Unit with Back-up Camera: Carzin and More

     I agreed to wire up and install my friend's new Carzin double din head unit. I was amazed at the many features packed into this unit for just $60. This post will cover details helpful to someone installing and wiring such a unit.

     Unbox the unit and familiarize yourself with the parts which include:
1) The seven inch touchscreen head unit. Note the volume, power and aux ports on the left side of the front. Also included is a micro usb jack. On the back are RCA jacks for the camera input and AV out as well as an antenna jack.
2) Two wiring harnesses that plug into the back of the head unit. One is for power and control. The other is for the speakers. These will connect to a wiring adapter that matches the factory harness.
3) Back up camera with wiring.
4) wiring harness to go from camera to back-up light
5) Wiring harness that goes from back-up light and camera to the head unit
6) Remote control

    If desired test the unit before install. First wire the head unit for power. You will need a 12VDC power source. I used a small lead acid battery. Two alligator clip test leads will be needed. Connect the yellow (A4) and the red (A7) to the positive terminal on the battery, Connect the black wire (A8) to the negative terminal on the battery


   
Power wiring complete


Next wire in the back-up camera. To simulate the back up signal we will use another jumper wire. Plug the shorter black RCA cable to the red RCA jack on the camera. The red wire at the other end will need to go to +12V on the battery. The black wire will connect to battery negative although for testing purposes it is not needed.


     Wire the long cable into the back of the head unit. Plug the RCA plug into the cam-in jack on the back of the head unit. Wire the open red lead on the cable to the gray wire on the power jack.


That red wire above goes to A2 (gray in this case)



    Wire the unit to the car wiring adapter 
1) Generally the A12V, ignition 12V and ground should be yellow, red and black respectively, on both plug A and the  car wiring adapter. Others may vary . Refer to the instructions  that came with the adapter. The only other wire I used was the blue (A5, antenna) wire. When I connected the orange (A3, key or steering wheel control) wire the unit would not power up, so I left it unwired. Use whatever means you prefer. I have no trouble with wire nuts as long as electrical tape is used. Others may prefer crimp connections or solder.


Colors may vary on your unit. Mine even varied from the instructions...

...
....for example I have no brown/black wire for A3 (key/steering wheel)

 2) The speaker wires matched up in color from the B harness to the car adapter.
     

Wiring and mounting in the vehicle


     I found mounting the head unit problematic in a 2004 Saturn Ion. It would not fit in the frame of the Metra GM kit that the owner purchased. I ended up mounting it with no frame, using only the two brackets provided in the Metra kit. 

1) Plug the long yellow camera video cable into the head unit and wire the red wire to the gray wire (A2). Find a route to feed the long wire through the dash to an entry point under the door jambs along the left side of the car. 
2) Plug in the wiring harness from the head unit into the factory harness. 
3) Plug the antenna wire into the head unit.
4) Mount the head unit.  

It was a struggle to mount this in a 2004 Saturn Ion
5) Run the long cable from the head unit to the trunk. This is often the most challenging part of the install. Running the wire under the door jambs works best.

Tuck the cable under the door jamb plastic cover 

6) Physically install the camera using the license plate mount. This will vary from vehicle to vehicle

It was easy to drill two holes in the composite material in the Saturn 

7) Find a route for the wiring to one of the back-up lights. This may involve removing a plug and routing along with other wires.

8) Plug the power back-up light cable (black) to the red jack from the camera and route to the back up wiring. Plug the two yellow jacks together.




9) Separate the red and black power wires and splice the two red leads together. Take care if using an automotive type splice. These wires are a very light 22 gauge and those splices are 16 or 18.

Automotive splice seemed like a good idea...


...but the wire was too small, so I went with this

10) Find the back-up power wire at one of the tail lights. There are several ways to locate this wire. One would be to turn the ignition on (do not start). Engage the parking brake or block a tire and shift car into reverse. Now use a automotive test light and probe the wires until the light comes on.  This is the 12V back-up wire. A second way would be to use an ohm meter to find the ground wire. Place one meter lead on a known good ground and the other on one of the two wires going to the back-up light. The wire with low resistance is the ground which also identifies the other wire as 12V.  
11) Wire the power wires to the back-up light. The red wire goes to to back-up 12V.  The black wire goes to the back-up ground wire. There are several ways to do this. If using a splice connector take care. The kit wires are 22 gauge and may not make good contact if the splices are too large. Stripping a bit of insulation and soldering is more reliable. Otherwise cut, strip and use a crimp fitting.

Automotive splice worked here 

12) Test the unit

Not a flawless fit but usable lol

Saturday, November 16, 2019

How to Replace all the Rear Brake Lines with a Pre-formed Kit Ford F150 1997-2003

       The problems began on my 2000 Ford F150 with poor braking. I parked it and noticed a pool of brake fluid under the rear axle. Examination of the all the lines revealed that the rear lines were rusted most of the way back to the ABS proportional controller. I decided to install a stainless steel kit made to fit all the lines in the truck. I also changed out the front lines later as part of a complete front brake job.

The leak point


                                                 The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Tubing bender to straighten any shipping bends, 10,14 and 15mm sockets and 3/8" ratchet, 1/2" and 12mm flare nut wrench,                       
  • Parts: Dorman kit 919-170 (check tables for correct kit for the cab and box lengths of your truck), differential vent (Napa 730-0213), four copper washers for brake hoses to banjo fittings, middle brake hose (Napa 380936),   
  • Materials: Brake fluid 
  • Time: 5 hours  


Tear out the rear Brake Lines

     I decided to tear out the rear lines from the ABS unit up front to both rear wheels. Most of these lines were rusted and even where they weren't, such as the first section from the ABS, the fittings were rusted together. We will break the line into four pieces and remove it first. I will share some of my experiences and what I learned during tear out. 

1) To avoid having to bleed the ABS unit, which may require a special scan tool, remove the fitting going to the rear first and install a plug in the ABS. I did have the bleeding done at a shop. 

2) Remove the brake hoses from the Banjo fittings on the calipers with a 14mm socket and collect the brake fluid. Don't try to turn out the brake fittings. The kit comes with brake hoses and brackets. Unbolt the line bracket near the caliper with a 10mm socket.


3) Cut out the lines where they meet at the differential breather with a hack saw.

Don't try to turn these two brake lines out, simply cut them out 

4) Cut out the fitting between the long brake line and the one that goes in the ABS, unless you are able to easily turn out the flare nut.

Not worth trying to remove this fitting...cut it out

5) Remove the differential breather. I found the fitting that holds the breather to the axle seized to the part that turns into the axle. I cut the middle hose and was able to turn it out of the axle. This will be replaced.



This was impossible to get out until I realized the threaded fastener was seized

6) Take care when removing the lines from the plastic holders not to break them. Heating with a blow dryer is a good aid to soften them for release. I found snap ring pliers helpful here.

Take care with the plastic holders

7) Pull the long middle line with hose and bracket still attached toward the rear. I only pulled it far enough to saw the bracket end line apart. The rest was removed toward the front.

8) Put the bracket in a vice and remove the old middle hose clamp. Take note of how it fits together for ease of re-assembly with new parts later.


9) Remove the line from the ABS unit out to the front. Separate it from the controller and all line holders and pull it out through the front. 

Installation of the Kit for the Rear Lines

1) Compare kit parts to the original lines to verify correct bends and lengths.

2) Compare the included brake hoses to the original to find best match in length and mounting brackets.

Find the best match for the brake hoses

3) Fit the rear axle brake lines to the brake hoses, making sure the brackets will fit properly. Recommended: use nickel or copper anti-seize on all threads.

4) Mount the middle hose to the bracket and bolt the bracket into place with a 15mm socket and ratchet. Do not tighten for now.

Note the curved-in end of the bracket toward the hose

5) Mount the other end of the middle hose to the axle with the differential vent fitting. Note: the holes for the brake lines are not centered. Mount the hose with the holes further away from the axle. Use some anti-seize on the threads. Bolt it securely with a 15mm deep well socket.

Installing vent end of hose on axle
         
6) Mount the left and right brake hose brackets loosely with a 10mm socket and ratchet.

7) Mount with the left and right hoses to their respective banjo fillings on the calipers with a 14mm socket and ratchet. Don't forget the copper washers.

8) Snap the right side brake line into the holders on the axle.

Snap the new line into this holder

8) Mount the other end of the brake lines to the middle brake hose.

Again, stop short of fully tightening these for now

9) Tighten all fittings and hoses.

10) Straighten the shipping bends in the long middle line and section from the ABS unit using a tubing bender.

11) Install the middle section from front to back. Make sure the line is routed properly so that it fits into all the plastic line holders from front to back.

12) Install the front-most section starting at the ABS unit and working back. This one is the most difficult to fit through as the channels are narrow and the line bendy.  A pull push method will work best to get it through.

13) Connect the flare nut fitting at front end of the line to the ABS proportional controller with a 1/2" flare nut wrench


14) Connect the other end of the line to the long middle line with two wrenches. I used a 15mm and 1/2" wrench.

15) Tighten all connections. Banjo bolts are torqued to 21-26 ftlbs.

16) Bleed all brake lines in this order: right rear, left rear, right front and lastly left front. If the ABS controller unit was allowed to empty, it may be necessary to have the it bled with a aid of a scan tool.

17) Test for leaks and effective braking.

     This is the truck this kit fits. The box is 6 feet long. 





Wednesday, November 6, 2019

How to Replace the Timing Belt, Idlers, Water Pump and Thermostat on a 2.5L Subaru Legacy 2009 to 2013


     This periodic maintenance job is easier than most on the Legacy and well within the capabilities of
most home mechanics. A crank pulley holding tool is the only special tool we needed for this job.

                                                     Tools and Materials

  • Tools:  Crankshaft holding tool  , 1/2" breaker bar (the longest you have), 10,14, 15,and 22mm sockets, pliers for hose removal, 
  • Parts: Timing belt, Water pump, thermostat, three idlers and tensioner, We used Subaru parts. 
  • Materials: Coolant and conditioner. We used Subaru. 
  • Time: 5 hours     


Initial Disassembly


1) Disconnect the battery
2) Drain the coolant. Remove large undercover panel (an assortment of panel fasteners) It is fastest and easiest to unclamp and pull back the lower radiator hose.
3) Remove the plastic belt guard (2 panel fasteners) and the air intake (2 panel fasteners) at the front of the car.
4) Remove the serpentine belt by turning the 15mm tensioner bolt clockwise while pulling off the belt


4) Remove the upper radiator hose with a vice grip or hose clamp pliers.
5) Remove the passenger side cooling fans. First remove two 10mm bolts. Then unplug the electrical connector and pull the fan up and out. .
6) Remove the driver's side cooling fan. First remove the coolant overflow bottle. Also on the driver's side, free a hose that is routed through the lower fan frame. Unbolt the two 10mm bolts and unplug the wiring. The fan will now pull up and out of the car.
7) Remove wishbone bracket. Three 15mm bolts, two upper and one lower toward the passenger side.

Remove these three 15mm bolts holding the bracket

8) Unplug two electrical connectors from the passenger side.
9) Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt. Use a holding tool, bracing it on the passenger side wheel well. It is helpful to move the air box a bit to get the tool positioned at a right angle to the pulley. Use a long breaker bar to turn out the 22mm bolt.


10) Remove the harmonic balancer. A few back and forth taps with a hammer should suffice to get it heading out.
11) Remove all timing belt covers (14 10mm bolts). There is one different length bolt on the lower middle of the passenger side cover.

Removal of Timing Belt and Water Pump

1) Line up engine timing marks for the cam sprockets and crank sprocket. Rotate the engine clockwise until all three are aligned. Then keep them there. 
Crank sprocket timing marks and pass cam (below)









2) Remove the lower smooth idler with a 14mm socket and ratchet.


3) Remove the upper smooth idler with a 14mm socket and ratchet.
4) Remove the timing belt.
5) Remove the toothed idler near the water pump with a 14mm socket and ratchet.
6) Remove the tensioner with a 14mm socket and ratchet.
7) Remove the six water pump mounting bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet. A three inch extension bar will be needed here. These bolts are not heavily torqued.

Remove these three and three on the under side

8) Unclamp and remove the hose below the pump and remove the pump

Remove and Replace the Thermostat 


1) Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the thermostat housing from the old pump with socket and ratchet.
2) Install new thermostat in the new pump assembly
3) Position the thermostat housing properly and bolt to the pump using the two 10mm bolts.
4) Torque to 8.9 ftlbs.

Install Water Pump

1) Place new gasket and six bolts on the pump and carefully position against mounting flange on engine. 
2) Turn in crosswise and in stages. Torque the bolts to 9ftlbs. 
3) Install the two hoses on the pump. 

Install Idler Pulleys, Tensioner and Timing Belt 

1) Install the upper idler just to the left of the crank pulley and torque the 14mm bolt to 28.8ftlbs.
2) Install tensioner and torque the 14mm bolt to 28.8ftlbs.
3) Install timing belt. Align the marks on new belt with the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets. Follow the routing as shown below. It will be loosely installed for now.


4) Clip the belt to the cams with a couple of small clamps to prevent any movement.
5) Install the toothed idler and torque the 14mm bolt to 28.8ftlbs.
6) Install the remaining passenger side smooth idler. Be careful to keep it flush as it is positioned. The tension of the belt will make this challenging. Turn the bolt in slowly and carefully to avoid cross threading. 

There will be downward tension from the belt providing a challenge

7) Activate the tensioner by pulling out the pin. 
8) Rotate the engine two full clockwise revolutions by hand, using the 22mm crank pulley bolt. Make sure there is no undue resistance and the timing marks remain aligned. The belt marks will not align again, 
9) Remove the crank pulley bolt by holding one of the cam pulley bolts as you turn it out counterclockwise.
                                         

Install Timing Covers, Balancer, Crank Pulley bolt and finish

1) Install the timing covers with the 14 10 mm bolts. Torque to 3 ftlbs if you have a wrench that measures such light torque. If not torque lightly. 
2) Install the harmonic balancer.
3) Install the crank pulley bolt. Insert the holding tool. Torque to 34.7 ftlbs plus 60 degrees. If your torque wrench does not measure degrees make a mark on the holding tool at 60 degrees and stop there.

Make a mark on the tool at 60 degrees from breaker bar start 

4) Install the support wishbone and torque to 26.6 ftlbs.
5) Install the serpentine belt by turning the 14mm tensioner bolt clockwise while slipping the belt back on. 
6) Install the fans with the 10mm bolts. Plug in the electrical connectors and route the hose on the Driver's side fan. 
7) Install the coolant overflow bottle. 
8) Plug in the two electrical connectors on the passenger side.
9) Reconnect the battery.
10) Fill with coolant and conditioner as recommended by Subaru. 
11) Run up to operating temperature (lower hose hot). Let cool and check level and add if needed.
12) Install the belt guard and air intake removed earlier. 




Thursday, October 4, 2018

How to Replace the Water Pump 2.2L Toyota Camry 1997-2001


A major coolant leak signaled that the water pump in a 2001 Toyota Camry had failed. In the 2.2L engine the pump is driven by the timing belt.  This post will cover replacing the entire pump assembly: both pump and housing. The front of the engine must be torn down to replace the pump. Here is a link to a post on front end tear down on this engine:
http://www.originalmechanic.com/2018/05/how-to-replace-timing-belt-1997-2001.html

                                                        The job at a glance



  • Tools:  Floor or other jack, jack stands, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive metric sockets 10, 12, 14 and 19mm wratches and wrenches, large breaker bar, harmonic balancer remover or other puller, two 6mm x 70mm thread pitch 1.00 bolts.
  • Parts: Water pump and housing assembly
  • Materials: 
  • Time: 3 hours     

Disassembly


1) Remove the alternator, tear down the front of the engine and remove the timing belt. See link above.

2) Drain coolant by opening the radiator petcock. But expect some minor loss of coolant during later parts of this procedure.

3) Remove the timing belt tensioner and spring.



4) Remove the idler as it is in the way of removal of the pump.

5) Remove the alternator mounting bracket (12mm) and separate the connected  wiring.

6) Remove the upper radiator hose by pulling the clamp back and pulling it off. This is where some coolant loss will occur.

7) Remove the plastic piece of pipe housing the thermostat (two 10mm nuts) from the water pump.



8) Remove two 10mm nuts holding a bracket for the two outlet pipes to the right of the pump.
I used a 1/4" ratchet and 2 inch extension and a "U" adapter to get into the tight lower spot.



9) Unbolt three 10mm water pump to engine mounting bolts. These are easy to access but note, several nearby bolts on the pump only hold the two pieces of the pump together. Don't remove those.

View of mounting nuts shown on the new pump


10) Pull the pump off the engine. It may take some jiggling to separate the pump from the outlet pipes. 

Installation


1) Seat the small o-ring on the upper steel outlet pipe. Just a touch of grease on the outside diameter of the o-ring will help new pump slide over it.



2) Seat the larger o-ring into place in the groove on the pump where it mounts on engine.

3) Seat the flange-type gasket on the water pump where the lower steel pipe mounts on the pump housing. 

4) Check the engine mating surfaces with the pump and clean if necessary.

5) Mount the pump. Slide it over the pair of outlet pipes. When seated fully, turn in the three 10mm mounting bolts, evenly by hand. Snug up. Tighten the two 10mm lower outlet pipe nuts. Torque the three mounting bolts now to 78 in lbs.




Torque the three mounting bolts to 78 in lbs

6) Mount the thermostat housing and thermostat with two 10mm nuts. This is a good time to install an new thermostat. Do not over torque these on the plastic housing. 

7) Install the upper radiator hose and clamp.

8) Mount the alternator bracket, loosely for now, with a 12mm bolt.  This will fully torqued later when the alternator is mounted. 

9) Reinstall the timing belt and the rest of the front of the engine. 

10) Test for leaks. 


Sunday, May 27, 2018

How to Replace the Timing Belt 1997-2001 Toyota Camry 2.2L

    This post will take the reader through a front engine tear down of a 2.2L Toyota Camry with the 5S-FE engine featured from 1997 to 2001. The timing belt will then be removed and a new belt installed, with careful attention given to the timing positions of the the camshaft and crankshaft. Other jobs possible now with the engine apart are the front oil seals and the water pump replacement.


                                                      The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Floor or other jack, jack stands, 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive metric sockets 10, 12, 14 and 19mm, wratches and wrenches, large breaker bar, harmonic balancer remover or other puller, two 6mm x 70mm thread pitch 1.00 bolts.
  • Parts: Timing belt 
  • Materials: 
  • Time: 1.5 hours      

Front Engine Disassembly


1) Disconnect the battery negative.

2) Loosen the right front wheel lug nuts, jack up the front and remove the wheel. Set down on stands or blocks. I like wood blocks.

3) Remove the splash cover in front of the crank shaft pulley. (two 10mm)

4) Remove the larger drive belt. Loosen the 14mm alternator pivot bolt and the 12mm alternator adjustment lock bolt. Then turn the 14mm adjustment bolt clockwise until the belt loosens enough to remove. 


Loosen the bolts indicated by the white arrows. Turn orange to remove belt.

5) Remove or set aside the alternator. This is optional, but recommended since it is quite easy and affords more room to work. Remove the two aforementioned bolts, unplug the wiring and unbolt the 10 mm battery plus connection. If desired it can be set aside, out of the way with wiring attached. 
6) Remove the front engine mount, sometimes called the "dogbone." Unbolt three 14mm mounting bolts and jiggle it out. 
7) Unplug a chassis ground.


Remove these three bolts and unplug the ground wire.


8) Remove the triangular shaped front engine mounting bracket. The top bolt is easy, but let's get into some detail on the much harder lower two bolts. This is a narrow spot, a mere 7 mm wide and using a socket that is too shallow will not allow the ratchet bar to clear and turn. Find some tools with a combined width of 5.5 to 6.5 cm (2.75"). Finding these ahead of time will save frustration in fitting an effective tool in there. I used a 14mm 1/2" drive socket along with a breaker bar to get the radiator side bolt broke. the back one took a 1/2" thin headed ratchet and the same  socket. Smaller tools will be needed to fully remove the bolts


These lower bolts are tough due to tight access
.

9) Remove the power steering belt. The difficulty is in loosening a 10 mm pivot bolt above the pump. I got in there with small tools, a 1/4" socket and ratchet with a small cheater pipe. Now the easier lower 10mm bolt, accessible with 3/8" ratchet, socket and 6 inch extension bar. Now move the pump forward to loosen and remove the belt.


Loosening the power steering pump pivot bolt  
10) Remove the upper timing cover. There are four 10 mm bolts of three different lengths used here. the lower one is a challenge. The upper firewall side bolt is very long and owing to it's great length and  a small arc of tool rotation, quickly becomes tedious to remove.  The other long bolt is also on top and the length is needed as it serves double duty as a wiring harness holder. With all four removed, jiggle the cover, with a very tight clearance up and out.

11) Place the engine in the top dead center timing position. This is best done by turning the crankshaft with a socket and breaker bar. See the timing section below for detail on this position.
  
12) Remove the crank pulley bolt. This 19mm bolt will likely be a challenge if you don't have air tools. I normally use a home-made fixture for this job, made out of 1/4"  angle iron.  It didn't work on this application. Instead, I was forced to use the "starter bump" method, and I was pleased with the results. Take precautions to disable the ignition (starting the car is a very bad thing in this situation). I found pulling the spark plug wires the easiest way.  Wire up a large breaker bar at a right angle to a substantial part. I used the lower control arm. Then give the starter a few taps. No One can be anywhere near that side of the car during this procedure! 


The breaker bar needs to be secured before bumping the starter


13) Remove the harmonic balancer. Likely you will need to use a puller as I did. If so you will need two bolts, 6mm x 70mm with a thread pitch of 1.00.

This is a steering wheel puller that worked great here

14) Remove the lower timing cover. This is easy with 4 accessible 10mm bolts to remove. Some wiring will need to be unclasped before the cover is removed.
15) Remove a small thin cup washer.
16) Loosen the tension pulley, move it downward, hold it there with a pry bar and tighten in that lowered position.
17) Slip off the timing belt.

Setting up the Timing Positions of the Cam and Crank Shafts


1) Set camshaft timing. The hole in the cam sprocket will align with a tick mark on the bearing cap behind it. It may help to check this by putting a small tool through the hole and feeling for the recessed tick mark.

The alignment marks for the camshaft

2) Set up the crankshaft timing.  These marks are very small, so here are some pictures to help find them.

The little bump must align with a mark on the sprocket....

...this is the tiny v-shaped timing mark


Installing the Timing Belt

1) Install the idler pulley if removed or replaced. Torque to 31 ft lbs.

The idler is torqued to 31 ft lbs


2) Install the tension pulley if removed or replaced. Do not torque at this time. Temporarily tighten it in the downward position as necessary to install the belt.

3) Install the belt. Start at the radiator side, keeping that side of the belt taut (slack free). Thread it through the other side and when fully positioned, release tension on the tension pulley only enough to take up the slack in the belt. Do not torque the belt at this time. This comes later.

Loosen the tension pulley to apply tension to the belt


4) Install the belt guide washer. The bowed side faces out.

5) Install the lower timing cover. Make note of the timing mark on the cover- 45 degrees before top dead center. I highlighted it with white paint for easier ID.

The mark highlighted in white is 45 degrees before TDC


6) Install the harmonic balancer.

7) Install crankshaft pulley bolt. It does not need to be torqued at this time.

8) Rotate the engine by hand 1 7/8 turns. At this point the mark on the harmonic balancer will align with the mark 45 degrees before top dead center on the lower timing cover. Now you can torque the tension pulley to 31 ft lbs.

9) Rotate the engine manually through two revolutions, making sure it turns freely and recheck all timing marks afterward.

 Reassemble the Front of the Engine


1) Lock the crank pulley down by some means and torque the pulley bolt to 80 ft lbs.

I locked it with a 1/4 angle bracket with 6mm x 70mm bolts


2) Install the upper timing cover.  There are four 10mm bolts of three different lengths. The two upper bolts are longest and a wiring harness holder slips over the end of the threads. The lowest bolt is shorter and the most difficult and will have to be started by feel. 

3) Secure the wiring harness to the end of the upper timing cover bolts. 

4) Install the front engine bracket with the three 14mm bolts. I could find no torque specified for these bolts. To assure alignment, it is advisable to start the dogbone mount bolts  before torquing the bracket.

5) Torque the three 14mm dog bone bolts to 47 ft lbs. 

6) Install the power steering belt. Use a pry tool to tighten the belt to proper deflection while tightening the lower 10mm mount bolt with a 3/8" ratchet with a six inch extension. 

7) Tighten the upper 10mm power steering lock bolt. This one is a struggle to reach. I used a 1/4" ratchet and socket. 

8) Install the alternator and drive belt. Tap in the long 14mm pivot and hand tighten. Install the 12mm
adjustment lock bolt and again hand tighten. Place the belt  and turn the adjustment bolt counter-clockwise until the belt deflection is correct. Tighten both pivot and lock bolt

9) Wire up the  alternator if it had been un-wired. 

10) Install the wheel well splash cover.

11) Install the wheel, set the car down, torque the lug nuts.

12) Wire up the battery and run the engine, checking for leaks.