Wednesday, August 9, 2017

4wd not working Ford F150: How to replace the 4wd light switch

    I had an intermittent problem with the 4wd not engaging on my 2000 Ford F150. After resolving a loss of vacuum, the problem returned. The 4wd light switch proved to be the chief suspect. In fact this became quite obvious after removing the switch and examining the inconsistent operation. This video will detail troubleshooting, removal and installation.

                                                 The job at a glance 

  • Tools:  A floor or other jack, jack stands, 22mm wrench 
  • Parts: 4wd light switch Motorcraft part # 4L3Z-7E440-AB
  • Materials: none.
  • Cost of parts: $19.55
  • Time: 1/2 hour      

Checking signals during correct operation

     Since this is an intermittent problem, it is helpful to look at the vacuum and electrical signals when it is working and then during the malfunction. We will be looking at the 4WD solenoid, the actuator and the light switch.

1) Confirm that there is vacuum at the lower line entering the solenoids. This should always be present when the truck is running.

The solenoids

2) Confirm operation of the vacuum actuator. Start the truck and shift into 4wd. Check for actuator movement to the left (passenger side).  

The 4wd vacuum actuator

3) Confirm 12V at the socket for the left solenoid wire. Unplug the wiring connector from the 4wd solenoid and turn the ignition on. 

4)  Confirm the solenoid control signal at the socket for the right solenoid wire. This is a sink signal so hook up the test light backwards, the ground lead on the battery positive.  Start the truck and shift into 4wd. The truck is on stands and in park. 

The electrical signals

    The presence of these signals confirms that the 4wd light switch is working properly. 

Troubleshooting during a malfunction

    When the light failed to come on it was time to find where this problem originates. 

1) Check for vacuum. It was present at the input to the solenoid but not at the actuator. 

2) Check for ignition on 12V. It was present.

3) Check for the solenoid control signal. With the truck running in 4wd the solenoid-on signal was absent. 

     It was time to look at the 4wd light switch. This switch signals the control unit that the truck has been placed in 4wd.

Removing and testing the 4wd light switch

1) Locate the switch. It is on the right side of the transfer case, basically right under the shifter. Slip under the truck at about the middle of the passenger front door. 

The 4wd light switch

2) Unplug the switch. There are two keepers that must be pried apart simultaneously. Be careful not to snap them off. 

3) Turn the switch out with a 22mm open end wrench.

4) Test the switch. Testing soon revealed that this switch was the problem. Mechanically it would stick in most of the time and fail to have continuity.

The sticking switch

Installing the 4wd light switch

1) Find a replacement switch.

2) Turn the switch in with a 22mm open end wrench.

3) Plug in

4) Test

Thursday, July 27, 2017

4WD not working on a Ford F150: How to troubleshoot vacuum in the control circuit

When the 4wd suddenly stopped  working on my 2000 F150 I had to troubleshoot an unfamiliar problem. I reached for my Haynes manual, but it was You Tubers that gave me the best directions. The system described here, manual shift on the fly, involves a vacuum diaphragm, vacuum lines and solenoids, a reservoir and the 4wd light switch. Firstly, I resolved a loss of vacuum. Then I replaced the 4wd light switch to return the system to consistent operation. I cover this in another post.

                                                   The job at a glance 

  • Tools:  A floor or other jack, jack stands, 8 and 15mm sockets, ratchet, pry tool
  • Parts: None
  • Materials: Silicone  .
  • Cost of parts: None
  • Time: 1 hour      

Checking Operation

The first notice that there was a problem was the failure of the 4wd light on the dash to come on after shifting. But I was troubled by the question "was it really not working?" So I jacked up all four wheels and put it in 4 wheel. The front wheels did not turn in 4wd.
     Another way to check operation is to have a look at the vacuum actuator under the front of tbe truck. 
1) Jack up the front of the truck and set on stands.
2) Remove the cover from the actuator. Three 10mm bolts.
3) Start the truck and leave in park. Note the relative position of the actuator. It will be to the right.
4) Place the truck in 4wd. The actuator should move to the left. Mine did not move. 


 Checking for vacuum   

     Since vacuum plays such is such a big part in the show, I took a look early in troubleshooting. I opened up a line feeding one of the solenoids. Only the front of the truck needs to be up.
1) Unplug the electrical connectors from the two solenoids. Push down and wiggle loose.

2) Pull the vacuum lines out of the solenoids. The lower of the two is the supply.
3) Start the truck and check for vacuum. It should always be there, in four wheel or not.                       With the truck running, it wasn't there.

      Now we have to backtrack to find where the vacuum is and is not. We are going to look for, and inspect, the vacuum reservoir box.

4) Disconnect and remove the battery.
5) Unbolt and remove the battery box. (four 15mm bolts).
6) Separate a wiring harness from the box with a prying tool.
7) The smaller of the two reservoirs is for 4wd. Remove the supply line from it and check for vacuum here. It was present. 

The 4wd vacuum reservoir

    I thoroughly inspected this box and could find no crack. I put some low pressure compressed air into it and looked for air bubbles with a dish soap and water mixture. Once, I think I may have seen a bubble. It was that indefinite. I applied silicone to all the all the seams on the box as a simple remedy.. 


    Hook the battery back up, without mounting, and test again for vacuum. It was now there at the inputs to the solenoid.


1) Mount the battery box. 
2) Snap the reservoirs back together and into mounting position. 
3) Mount and connect the battery.
4) Plug the vacuum lines back into the solenoids.
5) Plug the electrical connectors into the solenoids.

Thursday, April 27, 2017

How to remove and install the front bumper cover and headlamp assemblies '09-'13 Toyota Corolla

    I recently removed the front bumper cover and headlamp assemblies on my 2010 Toyota Corolla in order to replace the turn signal and side marker bulbs. This post will cover all three jobs.

                                                 The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Car ramps, 10mm socket or screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver
  • Parts:  2 side marker bulbs, BP194; 2 turn signal/parking light bulbs, BP3157NA ; high beam headlamp is 9005; low beam headlamp is 9006.
  • Cost of parts: BP194: $5.04 for 2; BP3157NA: 2.58ea; 9005: $13.59 for 2 ; 9006: $7.32 for 2
  • Time: 45 minutes     

Removal of the front bumper cover

     The side marker and turn signal bulbs are inaccessible until the headlamp assemblies are removed. The bumper cover conceals the headlamp assembly mounting bolts. We will start at the bottom as we remove the 16 various fasteners needed to remove the bumper cover. There are six fasteners on the bottom, two on each wheel well and six on top. 

1) Drive the car up onto ramps. This could be done on the ground, but with such low clearance, why?
2) Remove two 10mm screws under the passenger side corner. These merely attach to the wheel well cover.  
3) Remove two panel fasteners on the underside of the bumper. These are two piece. Pry out the center part and then remove the rest of the fastener. 

4) Remove the two 10mm screws under the drivers side corner.   
5) On each wheel well remove two fasteners. The lower one is an odd duck. It rotates ninety degrees and then pulls out, revealing its weird forked shape. Using a screwdriver, pry the bumper cover free of the wheel well cover. The upper is a tiny plastic screw that turns out, allowing the outer body of the fastener to come out. 

Separate the cover from the wheel well

6) Unsnap the bumper cover from the fender on each side. A small jerk is all it takes to separate the two pieces. 

7) Remove the six top fasteners. From the passenger side left, first comes a panel fastener, then a philips head screw with a rubber hood cushion built in and then a 10mm screw. Then remove the same three types on the driver's side.

The six top fasteners

8) Lift up and pull off the bumper cover. 

Removal of head lamp assemblies

      The head lamp assemblies are now accessible for replacement of the turn signal/parking lamp and side marker. The high and low beam headlamps are removable without taking off the bumper cover, but if replacing all bulbs anyway, this would be a great time. 

1) Remove three 10mm bolts, one top, one right and one on the side. 

2) Pull up on the plastic molding around the top screw and lift it up and over a protrusion.
3) On the front, lift up on the corner to free a locking tab that is snapped into a square cutout.

Lift up until the locking tab is released

4) Unplug all the lighting harnesses. They all turn about 30 degrees counterclockwise and then can be separated. 
5) Remove the head lamp assembly.

                                            Replace the light bulbs 

1) The side marker is BP194. Simply wiggle the old one out and insert a new bulb. Line up the slots and turn clockwise into the slot until it locks. 
2) The turn signal/parking lamp is BP3157NA. Wiggle out the old one and insert the new bulb. Line up the slots and turn clockwise into the slot until it locks. 
3) The low beam headlamp is a 9006.
4) The high beam headlamp is a 9005.

Install the headlamp assembly

1) Take care to seat the front corner of the assembly into the slot in the car. 
2) Snap the upper mounting hole over the protrusion.
3) Replace the three screws. The upper one is threaded for plastic while the other two are machine screws for metal. 
4) Repeat for the other assembly
5) Testing the lamps at this point would be a good idea. 

Install the bumper cover 

1) Place the cover up and over the mounting boss on the top of the car. It will then rest there. 
2) Snap the cover back into the fender.
3) Mount the six fasteners back on top. 
4) Mount the upper and lower wheel well panel fasteners on each side.
5) Mount the six fasteners back on the bottom in any order desired. 
6) All done


Tuesday, April 11, 2017

How to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump 1996-2002 Caravan, Voyager or Town and Country

This post will cover some fuel system maintenance on a 1996 to 2002 Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town and Country. These instructions cover both the fuel filter and fuel pump, but will be useful for either pump or filter replacement.

                                                The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Vice grip pliers, 10mm and 15mm wrench or socket and ratchet, strap wrench. Breaker bar may be needed. Also: Rags, pan to catch fuel 
  • Parts: Fuel filter, fuel pump 
  • Cost of parts: Filter $32; Fuel pump $58-$150 
  • Time: 2 hours    

Fuel system purge

This step is necessary to relieve the fuel pressure that exists throughout the system.

1) Remove the fuel pump relay. Locate it by removing the fuse and relay box cover in the engine compartment. The location is printed on the underside of the cover. Remove.

2) Attempt to start the van several times. When it fails to start and run the pressure is relieved.
3) Disconnect the negative of the battery.
4) Reinsert the relay. 

Fuel Filter removal

The fuel filter

1) Put the van on ramps or jack stands.
2) Place a jack and board under the fuel tank. The tank will need be lowered to access the pump and filter, which are atop the tank.
3) Remove the two 15mm strap bolts.

4) Lower the tank with the jack about 1 1/2 inches.
5) Disconnect the downstream fitting from the steel gas line. On this vehicle I had to squeeze the plastic insert while pulling back on the plastic fuel tubing of the filter assembly. A pliers such as a vice grip will help. Rust on the steel line under the insert made the job more challenging. I ended up cutting the tubing off longitudinally. 

6) Disconnect the two filter fittings from the fuel pump the same way. This is all plastic, so no corrosion to worry about. Have a catch pan ready for the inevitable fuel drip. 
7) Unbolt the filter canister from the mounting extrusion on the tank. This is 10mm bolt with a U-nut. Again, I encountered rust and had to cut the head off both the bolt and the nut. Make sure to take all precautions against sparks if this is needed. I sealed all gas lines, used a fan and had a fire extinguisher handy. 

I hope yours isn't this rusty!

8) Remove the old filter assembly. If not replacing the pump, move to fuel filter installation. If doing the pump continue...

Fuel Pump Removal

     I decided to replace the fuel pump as well at this time. The prep work is exactly the same as for the filter so this is an ideal time to knock off this job.

The fuel pump

1) Prep with steps 1-4 in fuel filter removal. 
2) Disconnect the two fuel lines from the pump by squeezing the plastic inserts and pulling the lines back. Have a pan ready to catch fuel.
3) Unplug the electrical connector. First release the locking tab with a dental pick or small screwdriver. Then move the tab to the right, and wiggle the connector free. 

This plug is tricky to unplug

4) Unscrew the lock ring atop the filter with a strap wrench. 

This strap wrench worked nicely

5) Clear off any dust or debris from the top of the pump and remove it. Angle it toward the front of the van and remove. It may have some gas inside so have the pan ready.

Fuel pump installation

1) If the new pump does not have the float attached, attach it using the original as a guide.
2) Slip the new o-ring on the pump
3) Install the pump. My aftermarket pump had an offset submersible filter that needed to be compressed on the way in. 
4) Turn on the lock ring. Make sure the o-ring is positioned properly. Align the protrusion on the pump with the notch in the tank while installing the ring. It won't turn in very far without using the strap wrench. Once the protrusion is seated in the notch, turn it on about as tightly as you can. 

Line up this protrusion with the notch in the ring on the tank

5) Plug in the electrical cable. The tab must be unlocked (moved to the right) going in and locked when seated.
6) Snap the two fuel lines into the pump. Put the color-coded inserts on the tank protrusions first. Turn them to align with the windows on the fittings on the end of the lines.  

Fuel Filter Installation

1) Mount the canister to tank with the 10mm nut. I used new hardware. 
2) Snap the two fuel lines into the pump. Put the color-coded inserts on the tank protrusions first. Turn them to align with the windows on the fittings on the end of the lines. 
3) Route the new downstream tubing part of the assembly under the front strap for the gas tank.
4) Snap the tubing into the steel gas line in the same manner as above.
5) Raise the tank but stop 1/4 from all the way up to allow some play to get the bolt started.
6) Start the 15mm strap bolts and then raise the tank the rest of the way. I put never-seize on the bolts.
7) Tighten the strap bolts.
8) Attach a ground strap from the filter to the front strap. 
9) Remove the jack.
9) Connect the battery and test for leaks. 


Tuesday, March 7, 2017

How to install closet door floor guides on a laminate floor

   This post reveals a simple and effective way to install closet floor guides on a laminate floor. It is best not to drill into these floating floors. Besides, this method is cleaner and faster.

                                              The job at a glance

  • Tools: Pencil, Optional, per situation: small piece of plywood or other wood, saw 
  • Materials: Clear silicone general purpose caulk, rags 
  • Parts: Floor guides  
  • Cost of parts: $2.67-$8.00
  • Time: 15 minutes   

1) Move both closet doors until they rest against the frame on one end of the closet. 
2) While the doors hang freely, slip the floor guides between the doors at the inside end of the doors and flush with the door edge. Bump the doors in or out and let them come to rest. This is the final position of the floor guides. For adjustable guides go to step 3, non adjustable step 4.

3) If the guides are adjustable to door width, adjust them so that their is a bit of free play between the guide edges and doors. 
4) If the guides are too low, cut a riser out of a piece of wood (plywood works great) and screw the guides onto it. 

I used a 3/8" thick piece of plywood as a riser

5) With a pencil, outline the guides if desired, for precise positioning.
6) Pick up the guides and lay down a bead of caulk over the entire surface, about 1/8" (3mm) thick.

7) Carefully place the guide in place over the pencil outline. Press down until the caulk flows out all around the guide.

8) Clean off excess caulk with a damp rag. 
9) Let the caulk cure for 24 hours before using the door. 



Saturday, January 21, 2017

How to replace the battery and volume button on a Nexus 5 Smart phone

     I recently changed out the volume button on a Nexus 5 Smartphone. I decided to replace the battery while in there. Both jobs require the same degree of dis-assembly.

                                             The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Flat blade and philips jeweler's screwdrivers
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Volume button and battery  
  • Cost of parts: Battery $16.99,  Button $11.75 
  • Time: 45 minutes   

Disassembly and removal

1) Power the phone down.
2) Remove the back of the phone. There are multiple catches in the back cover that fit into slots in the front. The back material is very flexible. Use the area of the power button as an entry point for the flat blade jeweler's screwdriver to pry apart those catches. I marked the position of these catches with some black electrical tape to aid in this separation.

It may help to know where the catches are located

 Continue to work around the cover, one by one unsnapping the catches. 

The first of many catches undone

When around to the opposite side from where started, work back to the top of the phone on both sides. Then simply pull the cover toward the bottom of the phone and it will come free.
2) Remove the upper larger plastic cover.  Remove 6 philips screws and the cover will pull off. 

Remove these six screws...

...And this cover is out of the way

3) Install the volume button. A horseshoe shaped part fits over a nub projecting in the phone and then slips behind the lower cover of the phone. 

4) Disconnect a flexible circuit board that runs along one edge of the battery. It plugs into a long narrow multi-connector above the battery. Move this away from the battery. 

pry up on both edges at once to unplug this connector

5) Unplug the battery. It plugs in with a smaller, same style connector as previous. 

unplug the battery connector

6) Remove the battery. The back may be sticky and require some gently prying with the straight blade screwdriver along several sides of the battery. 

Installation and re-assembly

1) Press the new battery into position and plug it in. 
2) Plug in the flexible board that runs over the left edge of the battery. 
3) Mount the top inner cover with the six philips screws.
4) Snap the back cover back in position. 
5) Charge and test. 


Tuesday, January 10, 2017

How to troubleshoot and replace the starter solenoid on a MTD and other lawn tractors

     If a lawn tractor fails to start, with a known good battery and starter, the next place to look is at the starter solenoid. This is the control part between the battery and starter. In this post I will show how to locate, troubleshoot and replace the starter solenoid in an MTD lawn tractor. The procedure would be similar in other brands of tractor, such as Cub Cadet, John Deere and Toro. Shown is MTD model 13AL667F118.

                                              The job at a glance

  • Tools:  7/16" (or 11mm) and 3/8"  socket and ratchet or wrenches. Voltmeter or test lamp
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Starter solenoid 
  • Cost of parts: $10 
  • Time: 45 minutes    
     This post assumes no voltage is present at the starter. We will backtrack to the solenoid and do some troubleshooting.

Dis-assembly to access Solenoid

1) Remove the knobs from the gear stick and speed selector. They simply rotate off in a counterclockwise direction.
2) Remove the two philips head sheet metal screws which fasten down the console cover.
3) Pull the cover out over the now knob-less levers.
4) Optional: Unplug the wire attached to the cover. Then it can be set out of the way. There is the solenoid mounted under the front of the seat.

location of solenoid


    The solenoid consists of a coil of wire that is energized when safety requirements are met and the ignition is turned into the start position. When the coil is energized a contact closes and the battery voltage passes over to the starter. We must establish first that the all important starter control signal is getting to the solenoid. 

1) Attach the positive lead of a voltmeter, or test lamp, to the control terminal. This is a spade connection on this solenoid. Clip a lead on the spade and put the ground on the battery negative or on one of the mounting bolts of the solenoid. Now turn the ignition to start and look for the 12V at the spade connection. If this is present proceed to the next step. If not, the control circuit will need to be examined for the fault. 

3) Confirm battery voltage at the incoming battery connection of the solenoid. If voltage is present proceed to the next step. If not look for a loose or corroded battery connection.

4) Place your meter or light at the output of the solenoid (right side). Turn the ignition switch and look for 12V here. If not present, replace the solenoid. If present, check for it at the starter. There could be a broken or loose connection at the starter. 

Removing and replacing the Solenoid

1) Disconnect the negative of the battery.
2) Unwire the battery with a 7/16 (or 11mm) connection from the large left side terminal of the solenoid. There are two wires that connect here. 

3) Disconnect the control wire from the spade connection.
4) Unbolt the output wire from the solenoid. 
5) Unbolt the two solenoid.mounting bolts to the bulkhead. These are 3/8". There is an additional small ground wire on the right side. 

Note the battery negative and additional ground wire

6) Remove the solenoid. 

Installing a new solenoid 

     This solenoid is not a difficult part to find.

1) Wire up the incoming side. There are two wires here. Turn the 7/16 nut finger tight.
2) Wire the output side.
3) Plug in the control wire to the spade connection. 
4) Mount the solenoid to the tractor bulkhead with the 3/8" bolts. Remember there is an additional ground wire on the right side.

Finishing up the re-assembly

1) Plug the wire into the underside of the console cover.
2) Place the cover into position over the two posts.
3) Install the two cover screws
4) Turn on the knobs
5) Re-connect the battery
6) Test 

Friday, December 23, 2016

Craftsman 1.5HP air compressor: Drain plug upgrade and oil change

     It happened again. A slight nudge with the bumper of a car and my Craftsman air compressor model 921.152100 is on it's side with a broken drain plug. This fragile part had broken before in a similar fashion. Although this is not a costly part, I was tired of dealing with this deficiency in an otherwise stout and reliable machine. In this post I will show you how I upgraded this part from fragile to unbreakable. And I'll throw in an oil change.

                                                     The job at a glance

  • Tools: Electric drill, 5/16 Allen wrench, Optional: channel-lock pliers and 15/16 socket.
  • Materials: 1/8 drill bit, Air compressor oil, pan for drain oil  
  • Parts: Steel set screw for plug: size 5/8 - 16    5/8" long    
  • Cost of parts:  $.75
  • Time: 45 minutes    

The arrow points to the missing drain plug

Preparing the plug

1) Find the correct size set screw for the plug. I took the broken part to a hardware store and used their thread matching jig to find it. The correct size is 5/8-18  (The "18" is the threads-per-inch count). The plug I found was 5/8" long but this dimension is not critical. 

2) Drill the hole for ventilation. The original plastic plug had two approximately 1/8" holes in it. We must vent this plug. Just use a sharp bit. This plug was recessed so I didn't need to center punch it.

The upgrade is ready

3) Wrap the plug threads in teflon tape.

Changing the oil

1) Lift the compressor over a drain pan and drain the oil. It won't take long, there isn't much in there. The manual omitted the oil volume required so I determined that by weighing the used oil in the machine. I measured it at 38 grams in a one time attempt to establish exactly how much oil to add.

2) Optional: The owners manual instructs to remove the sight glass to drain the remaining oil. With channel lock pliers and a 15/16 socket drain the rest of the oil.  I measured a mere 4 grams. This is hardly worth the trouble but the manual recommends it so I did it. Reinstall the sight glass.  

3) Fill with fresh oil. I weighed 42g of oil and drew it into a syringe to determine volume. It is 45cc or 1 1/2oz.  Fill and make sure it is level with the center of the sight glass. I put a sticker on the top of the compressor with the correct volume of oil to add to assist me in future oil changes. I try to change the oil once a year.

4) Install the ungraded drain plug. Don't over-torque.

A 5/16" Allen wrench will now tighten our plug

5) Test. Air does flow out of the plug. No leaks and good to go. Let's inflate some tires!


Tuesday, December 20, 2016

How to troubleshoot and replace the starter on an MTD riding mower

     This post details how to troubleshoot and replace the starter on an MTD riding mower model 13AL667F118. This procedure would be similar on many other brands of riding mowers with Briggs and Stratton engines, such as John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro and more. This is not a difficult job.

                                                    The job at a glance

  • Tools: 1/4", 7/16" (or 11mm) and 1/2"  socket and ratchet or wrenches. 
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Starter   
  • Cost of parts: $30 (aftermarket)- 73 (OEM) 
  • Time: 45 minutes    


The starter is located on the right side of the Briggs and Stratton engine. 

1) Remove the plastic cover for the pinion gear. It is held on by two 1/4" hex head screws.

The pinion cover screws

2) With the cover off,  try to start the engine and watch for movement of the pinion gear and turning of the flywheel. If the gear moves upward but the flywheel doesn't turn,  there may be an engine problem, perhaps even a seized piston. If the starter turns the engine and it won't start, the starter is good. If the starter appears to be dead, move on to step 3.

3) Unwire the red power (B+) cable from the starter. This wire is not electrically hot until the ignition switch is turned to the start position. It is held on by a 7/16" (11mm will also fit) nut affixed to a stud on the side of the starter.

Unbolting the starter


     With the lug unwired, this is a good time to confirm that it is the starter that is faulty. There are other upstream possibilities for an engine that fails to start. Attach the positive of a voltmeter (or test lamp) to the lug. Attach the negative lead to an engine mounting bolt. Now try to start the engine and troubleshoot as follows:  

12V present at the lug: Unless the engine is seized, the starter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

12V is present at the end of wire: replace starter

12V not present at the lug: The problem is upstream. The starter solenoid and/or the control circuit will need to be tested. This will be considered in another blog:
Back to removing the starter: 

4) Unbolt the starter. Use a 1/2" (or 13mm) socket to unbolt the starter from the engine. There is a bracket on the left side bolt that is used to as a wire guide. Note the routing of the wire before removing.

Remove two half inch bolts and it's out

5) Remove the starter. 

6) Find a replacement motor. See the end of the blog for possible replacements. 


1) Mount the new starter with the two 1/2" (or 13mm) mounting bolts. Be sure to place the bracket correctly on the under the left side bolt. Snug these bolts up good. They provide the starter ground connection

2) Mount the power wire to the starter with the 7/16 (or 11mm) socket. 

3) Test the starter. 

4) If all is well place the cover back over the pinion gear with the two 1/4" screws.