Thursday, April 27, 2017

How to remove and install the front bumper cover and headlamp assemblies '09-'13 Toyota Corolla

    I recently removed the front bumper cover and headlamp assemblies on my 2010 Toyota Corolla in order to replace the turn signal and side marker bulbs. This post will cover all three jobs.

                                                 The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Car ramps, 10mm socket or screwdriver, straight blade screwdriver
  • Parts:  2 side marker bulbs, BP194; 2 turn signal/parking light bulbs, BP3157NA ; high beam headlamp is 9005; low beam headlamp is 9006.
  • Cost of parts: BP194: $5.04 for 2; BP3157NA: 2.58ea; 9005: $13.59 for 2 ; 9006: $7.32 for 2
  • Time: 45 minutes     

Removal of the front bumper cover

     The side marker and turn signal bulbs are inaccessible until the headlamp assemblies are removed. The bumper cover conceals the headlamp assembly mounting bolts. We will start at the bottom as we remove the 16 various fasteners needed to remove the bumper cover. There are six fasteners on the bottom, two on each wheel well and six on top. 

1) Drive the car up onto ramps. This could be done on the ground, but with such low clearance, why?
2) Remove two 10mm screws under the passenger side corner. These merely attach to the wheel well cover.  
3) Remove two panel fasteners on the underside of the bumper. These are two piece. Pry out the center part and then remove the rest of the fastener. 




4) Remove the two 10mm screws under the drivers side corner.   
5) On each wheel well remove two fasteners. The lower one is an odd duck. It rotates ninety degrees and then pulls out, revealing its weird forked shape. Using a screwdriver, pry the bumper cover free of the wheel well cover. The upper is a tiny plastic screw that turns out, allowing the outer body of the fastener to come out. 



Separate the cover from the wheel well

6) Unsnap the bumper cover from the fender on each side. A small jerk is all it takes to separate the two pieces. 



7) Remove the six top fasteners. From the passenger side left, first comes a panel fastener, then a philips head screw with a rubber hood cushion built in and then a 10mm screw. Then remove the same three types on the driver's side.

The six top fasteners

8) Lift up and pull off the bumper cover. 




Removal of head lamp assemblies

      The head lamp assemblies are now accessible for replacement of the turn signal/parking lamp and side marker. The high and low beam headlamps are removable without taking off the bumper cover, but if replacing all bulbs anyway, this would be a great time. 

1) Remove three 10mm bolts, one top, one right and one on the side. 



2) Pull up on the plastic molding around the top screw and lift it up and over a protrusion.
3) On the front, lift up on the corner to free a locking tab that is snapped into a square cutout.

Lift up until the locking tab is released

4) Unplug all the lighting harnesses. They all turn about 30 degrees counterclockwise and then can be separated. 
5) Remove the head lamp assembly.

                                            Replace the light bulbs 


1) The side marker is BP194. Simply wiggle the old one out and insert a new bulb. Line up the slots and turn clockwise into the slot until it locks. 
2) The turn signal/parking lamp is BP3157NA. Wiggle out the old one and insert the new bulb. Line up the slots and turn clockwise into the slot until it locks. 
3) The low beam headlamp is a 9006.
4) The high beam headlamp is a 9005.


Install the headlamp assembly


1) Take care to seat the front corner of the assembly into the slot in the car. 
2) Snap the upper mounting hole over the protrusion.
3) Replace the three screws. The upper one is threaded for plastic while the other two are machine screws for metal. 
4) Repeat for the other assembly
5) Testing the lamps at this point would be a good idea. 

Install the bumper cover 


1) Place the cover up and over the mounting boss on the top of the car. It will then rest there. 
2) Snap the cover back into the fender.
3) Mount the six fasteners back on top. 
4) Mount the upper and lower wheel well panel fasteners on each side.
5) Mount the six fasteners back on the bottom in any order desired. 
6) All done

         

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

How to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump 1996-2002 Caravan, Voyager or Town and Country

This post will cover some fuel system maintenance on a 1996 to 2002 Dodge Caravan, Plymouth Voyager and Chrysler Town and Country. These instructions cover both the fuel filter and fuel pump, but will be useful for either pump or filter replacement.

                                                The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Vice grip pliers, 10mm and 15mm wrench or socket and ratchet, strap wrench. Breaker bar may be needed. Also: Rags, pan to catch fuel 
  • Parts: Fuel filter, fuel pump 
  • Cost of parts: Filter $32; Fuel pump $58-$150 
  • Time: 2 hours    

Fuel system purge


This step is necessary to relieve the fuel pressure that exists throughout the system.

1) Remove the fuel pump relay. Locate it by removing the fuse and relay box cover in the engine compartment. The location is printed on the underside of the cover. Remove.



2) Attempt to start the van several times. When it fails to start and run the pressure is relieved.
3) Disconnect the negative of the battery.
4) Reinsert the relay. 

Fuel Filter removal


The fuel filter

1) Put the van on ramps or jack stands.
2) Place a jack and board under the fuel tank. The tank will need be lowered to access the pump and filter, which are atop the tank.
3) Remove the two 15mm strap bolts.



4) Lower the tank with the jack about 1 1/2 inches.
5) Disconnect the downstream fitting from the steel gas line. On this vehicle I had to squeeze the plastic insert while pulling back on the plastic fuel tubing of the filter assembly. A pliers such as a vice grip will help. Rust on the steel line under the insert made the job more challenging. I ended up cutting the tubing off longitudinally. 



6) Disconnect the two filter fittings from the fuel pump the same way. This is all plastic, so no corrosion to worry about. Have a catch pan ready for the inevitable fuel drip. 
7) Unbolt the filter canister from the mounting extrusion on the tank. This is 10mm bolt with a U-nut. Again, I encountered rust and had to cut the head off both the bolt and the nut. Make sure to take all precautions against sparks if this is needed. I sealed all gas lines, used a fan and had a fire extinguisher handy. 


I hope yours isn't this rusty!

8) Remove the old filter assembly. If not replacing the pump, move to fuel filter installation. If doing the pump continue...

Fuel Pump Removal

     I decided to replace the fuel pump as well at this time. The prep work is exactly the same as for the filter so this is an ideal time to knock off this job.


The fuel pump


1) Prep with steps 1-4 in fuel filter removal. 
2) Disconnect the two fuel lines from the pump by squeezing the plastic inserts and pulling the lines back. Have a pan ready to catch fuel.
3) Unplug the electrical connector. First release the locking tab with a dental pick or small screwdriver. Then move the tab to the right, and wiggle the connector free. 


This plug is tricky to unplug

4) Unscrew the lock ring atop the filter with a strap wrench. 


This strap wrench worked nicely

5) Clear off any dust or debris from the top of the pump and remove it. Angle it toward the front of the van and remove. It may have some gas inside so have the pan ready.


Fuel pump installation


1) If the new pump does not have the float attached, attach it using the original as a guide.
2) Slip the new o-ring on the pump
3) Install the pump. My aftermarket pump had an offset submersible filter that needed to be compressed on the way in. 
4) Turn on the lock ring. Make sure the o-ring is positioned properly. Align the protrusion on the pump with the notch in the tank while installing the ring. It won't turn in very far without using the strap wrench. Once the protrusion is seated in the notch, turn it on about as tightly as you can. 

Line up this protrusion with the notch in the ring on the tank

5) Plug in the electrical cable. The tab must be unlocked (moved to the right) going in and locked when seated.
6) Snap the two fuel lines into the pump. Put the color-coded inserts on the tank protrusions first. Turn them to align with the windows on the fittings on the end of the lines.  


Fuel Filter Installation

1) Mount the canister to tank with the 10mm nut. I used new hardware. 
2) Snap the two fuel lines into the pump. Put the color-coded inserts on the tank protrusions first. Turn them to align with the windows on the fittings on the end of the lines. 
3) Route the new downstream tubing part of the assembly under the front strap for the gas tank.
4) Snap the tubing into the steel gas line in the same manner as above.
5) Raise the tank but stop 1/4 from all the way up to allow some play to get the bolt started.
6) Start the 15mm strap bolts and then raise the tank the rest of the way. I put never-seize on the bolts.
7) Tighten the strap bolts.
8) Attach a ground strap from the filter to the front strap. 
9) Remove the jack.
9) Connect the battery and test for leaks. 

  
              

Tuesday, March 7, 2017

How to install closet door floor guides on a laminate floor

   This post reveals a simple and effective way to install closet floor guides on a laminate floor. It is best not to drill into these floating floors. Besides, this method is cleaner and faster.


                                              The job at a glance

  • Tools: Pencil, Optional, per situation: small piece of plywood or other wood, saw 
  • Materials: Clear silicone general purpose caulk, rags 
  • Parts: Floor guides  
  • Cost of parts: $2.67-$8.00
  • Time: 15 minutes   

1) Move both closet doors until they rest against the frame on one end of the closet. 
2) While the doors hang freely, slip the floor guides between the doors at the inside end of the doors and flush with the door edge. Bump the doors in or out and let them come to rest. This is the final position of the floor guides. For adjustable guides go to step 3, non adjustable step 4.





3) If the guides are adjustable to door width, adjust them so that their is a bit of free play between the guide edges and doors. 
4) If the guides are too low, cut a riser out of a piece of wood (plywood works great) and screw the guides onto it. 


I used a 3/8" thick piece of plywood as a riser

5) With a pencil, outline the guides if desired, for precise positioning.
6) Pick up the guides and lay down a bead of caulk over the entire surface, about 1/8" (3mm) thick.



7) Carefully place the guide in place over the pencil outline. Press down until the caulk flows out all around the guide.



8) Clean off excess caulk with a damp rag. 
9) Let the caulk cure for 24 hours before using the door. 

Finished


       

Saturday, January 21, 2017

How to replace the battery and volume button on a Nexus 5 Smart phone

     I recently changed out the volume button on a Nexus 5 Smartphone. I decided to replace the battery while in there. Both jobs require the same degree of dis-assembly.

                                             The job at a glance

  • Tools:  Flat blade and philips jeweler's screwdrivers
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Volume button and battery  
  • Cost of parts: Battery $16.99,  Button $11.75 
  • Time: 45 minutes   

Disassembly and removal

1) Power the phone down.
2) Remove the back of the phone. There are multiple catches in the back cover that fit into slots in the front. The back material is very flexible. Use the area of the power button as an entry point for the flat blade jeweler's screwdriver to pry apart those catches. I marked the position of these catches with some black electrical tape to aid in this separation.

It may help to know where the catches are located

 Continue to work around the cover, one by one unsnapping the catches. 

The first of many catches undone


When around to the opposite side from where started, work back to the top of the phone on both sides. Then simply pull the cover toward the bottom of the phone and it will come free.
2) Remove the upper larger plastic cover.  Remove 6 philips screws and the cover will pull off. 

Remove these six screws...


...And this cover is out of the way

3) Install the volume button. A horseshoe shaped part fits over a nub projecting in the phone and then slips behind the lower cover of the phone. 


4) Disconnect a flexible circuit board that runs along one edge of the battery. It plugs into a long narrow multi-connector above the battery. Move this away from the battery. 

pry up on both edges at once to unplug this connector

5) Unplug the battery. It plugs in with a smaller, same style connector as previous. 

unplug the battery connector

6) Remove the battery. The back may be sticky and require some gently prying with the straight blade screwdriver along several sides of the battery. 

Installation and re-assembly

1) Press the new battery into position and plug it in. 
2) Plug in the flexible board that runs over the left edge of the battery. 
3) Mount the top inner cover with the six philips screws.
4) Snap the back cover back in position. 
5) Charge and test. 


            

Tuesday, January 10, 2017

How to troubleshoot and replace the starter solenoid on a MTD and other lawn tractors

     If a lawn tractor fails to start, with a known good battery and starter, the next place to look is at the starter solenoid. This is the control part between the battery and starter. In this post I will show how to locate, troubleshoot and replace the starter solenoid in an MTD lawn tractor. The procedure would be similar in other brands of tractor, such as Cub Cadet, John Deere and Toro. Shown is MTD model 13AL667F118.

                                              The job at a glance

  • Tools:  7/16" (or 11mm) and 3/8"  socket and ratchet or wrenches. Voltmeter or test lamp
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Starter solenoid 
  • Cost of parts: $10 
  • Time: 45 minutes    
     This post assumes no voltage is present at the starter. We will backtrack to the solenoid and do some troubleshooting.

Dis-assembly to access Solenoid

1) Remove the knobs from the gear stick and speed selector. They simply rotate off in a counterclockwise direction.
2) Remove the two philips head sheet metal screws which fasten down the console cover.
3) Pull the cover out over the now knob-less levers.
4) Optional: Unplug the wire attached to the cover. Then it can be set out of the way. There is the solenoid mounted under the front of the seat.


location of solenoid

Troubleshooting


    The solenoid consists of a coil of wire that is energized when safety requirements are met and the ignition is turned into the start position. When the coil is energized a contact closes and the battery voltage passes over to the starter. We must establish first that the all important starter control signal is getting to the solenoid. 

1) Attach the positive lead of a voltmeter, or test lamp, to the control terminal. This is a spade connection on this solenoid. Clip a lead on the spade and put the ground on the battery negative or on one of the mounting bolts of the solenoid. Now turn the ignition to start and look for the 12V at the spade connection. If this is present proceed to the next step. If not, the control circuit will need to be examined for the fault. 



3) Confirm battery voltage at the incoming battery connection of the solenoid. If voltage is present proceed to the next step. If not look for a loose or corroded battery connection.

4) Place your meter or light at the output of the solenoid (right side). Turn the ignition switch and look for 12V here. If not present, replace the solenoid. If present, check for it at the starter. There could be a broken or loose connection at the starter. 

Removing and replacing the Solenoid


1) Disconnect the negative of the battery.
2) Unwire the battery with a 7/16 (or 11mm) connection from the large left side terminal of the solenoid. There are two wires that connect here. 



3) Disconnect the control wire from the spade connection.
4) Unbolt the output wire from the solenoid. 
5) Unbolt the two solenoid.mounting bolts to the bulkhead. These are 3/8". There is an additional small ground wire on the right side. 


Note the battery negative and additional ground wire

6) Remove the solenoid. 

Installing a new solenoid 


     This solenoid is not a difficult part to find.

1) Wire up the incoming side. There are two wires here. Turn the 7/16 nut finger tight.
2) Wire the output side.
3) Plug in the control wire to the spade connection. 
4) Mount the solenoid to the tractor bulkhead with the 3/8" bolts. Remember there is an additional ground wire on the right side.



Finishing up the re-assembly

1) Plug the wire into the underside of the console cover.
2) Place the cover into position over the two posts.
3) Install the two cover screws
4) Turn on the knobs
5) Re-connect the battery
6) Test 

Friday, December 23, 2016

Craftsman 1.5HP air compressor: Drain plug upgrade and oil change

     It happened again. A slight nudge with the bumper of a car and my Craftsman air compressor model 921.152100 is on it's side with a broken drain plug. This fragile part had broken before in a similar fashion. Although this is not a costly part, I was tired of dealing with this deficiency in an otherwise stout and reliable machine. In this post I will show you how I upgraded this part from fragile to unbreakable. And I'll throw in an oil change.

                                                     The job at a glance

  • Tools: Electric drill, 5/16 Allen wrench, Optional: channel-lock pliers and 15/16 socket.
  • Materials: 1/8 drill bit, Air compressor oil, pan for drain oil  
  • Parts: Steel set screw for plug: size 5/8 - 16    5/8" long    
  • Cost of parts:  $.75
  • Time: 45 minutes    

The arrow points to the missing drain plug


Preparing the plug

1) Find the correct size set screw for the plug. I took the broken part to a hardware store and used their thread matching jig to find it. The correct size is 5/8-18  (The "18" is the threads-per-inch count). The plug I found was 5/8" long but this dimension is not critical. 

2) Drill the hole for ventilation. The original plastic plug had two approximately 1/8" holes in it. We must vent this plug. Just use a sharp bit. This plug was recessed so I didn't need to center punch it.


The upgrade is ready


3) Wrap the plug threads in teflon tape.


Changing the oil

1) Lift the compressor over a drain pan and drain the oil. It won't take long, there isn't much in there. The manual omitted the oil volume required so I determined that by weighing the used oil in the machine. I measured it at 38 grams in a one time attempt to establish exactly how much oil to add.



2) Optional: The owners manual instructs to remove the sight glass to drain the remaining oil. With channel lock pliers and a 15/16 socket drain the rest of the oil.  I measured a mere 4 grams. This is hardly worth the trouble but the manual recommends it so I did it. Reinstall the sight glass.  

3) Fill with fresh oil. I weighed 42g of oil and drew it into a syringe to determine volume. It is 45cc or 1 1/2oz.  Fill and make sure it is level with the center of the sight glass. I put a sticker on the top of the compressor with the correct volume of oil to add to assist me in future oil changes. I try to change the oil once a year.

4) Install the ungraded drain plug. Don't over-torque.

A 5/16" Allen wrench will now tighten our plug


5) Test. Air does flow out of the plug. No leaks and good to go. Let's inflate some tires!



                                 

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

How to troubleshoot and replace the starter on an MTD riding mower

     This post details how to troubleshoot and replace the starter on an MTD riding mower model 13AL667F118. This procedure would be similar on many other brands of riding mowers with Briggs and Stratton engines, such as John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro and more. This is not a difficult job.



                                                    The job at a glance

  • Tools: 1/4", 7/16" (or 11mm) and 1/2"  socket and ratchet or wrenches. 
  • Materials: None 
  • Parts: Starter   
  • Cost of parts: $30 (aftermarket)- 73 (OEM) 
  • Time: 45 minutes    

Disassembly


The starter is located on the right side of the Briggs and Stratton engine. 

1) Remove the plastic cover for the pinion gear. It is held on by two 1/4" hex head screws.

The pinion cover screws

2) With the cover off,  try to start the engine and watch for movement of the pinion gear and turning of the flywheel. If the gear moves upward but the flywheel doesn't turn,  there may be an engine problem, perhaps even a seized piston. If the starter turns the engine and it won't start, the starter is good. If the starter appears to be dead, move on to step 3.

3) Unwire the red power (B+) cable from the starter. This wire is not electrically hot until the ignition switch is turned to the start position. It is held on by a 7/16" (11mm will also fit) nut affixed to a stud on the side of the starter.

Unbolting the starter


Troubleshooting


     With the lug unwired, this is a good time to confirm that it is the starter that is faulty. There are other upstream possibilities for an engine that fails to start. Attach the positive of a voltmeter (or test lamp) to the lug. Attach the negative lead to an engine mounting bolt. Now try to start the engine and troubleshoot as follows:  

12V present at the lug: Unless the engine is seized, the starter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

12V is present at the end of wire: replace starter


12V not present at the lug: The problem is upstream. The starter solenoid and/or the control circuit will need to be tested. This will be considered in another blog:
http://www.originalmechanic.com/2017/01/how-to-troubleshoot-and-replace-starter.html
Back to removing the starter: 

4) Unbolt the starter. Use a 1/2" (or 13mm) socket to unbolt the starter from the engine. There is a bracket on the left side bolt that is used to as a wire guide. Note the routing of the wire before removing.

Remove two half inch bolts and it's out


5) Remove the starter. 

6) Find a replacement motor. See the end of the blog for possible replacements. 

Reassembly


1) Mount the new starter with the two 1/2" (or 13mm) mounting bolts. Be sure to place the bracket correctly on the under the left side bolt. Snug these bolts up good. They provide the starter ground connection

2) Mount the power wire to the starter with the 7/16 (or 11mm) socket. 

3) Test the starter. 

4) If all is well place the cover back over the pinion gear with the two 1/4" screws.

  




<                       

Friday, December 2, 2016

How to repair a broken chip-type ignition key

    I was surprised when a family member handed me a two piece remote access chip-type ignition key. I knew this key would cost $350 to replace so I was going to do all I could to put it back together again. This is a Toyota key.



The plastic holder of the metal key had broken apart and separated. I was amazed at how little of the cut, metal portion of this key actually overlapped with the plastic part.  My first thought was that this could be simply snapped together again.

Just slip it back into the broken slot. Good enough....right?


The First Try

     I tried to fix this with minimum effort. The metal top of the key snapped very snugly into the plastic holder. Then the back cover snapped over that and made a quite tight fit. Surely this would hold together. On the second or third ignition turn it came apart.

The Second Try

    I should have glued the broken seam back together. Yeah, that's why it came apart again. So I got out some used super glue, snapped the key back in the slot and glued the seam. I clamped it together and let it dry awhile. I have seen super glue hold broken parts together many times. This time it held for about 3 days before I had the two pieces back in my hand again.

The Third Try

     I figured it out. I didn't apply glue on enough of the surfaces of the key. Surely more glue was all that was needed. I bought a fresh pack of glue. That old glue maybe wasn't good anymore.  I glued it and clamped it for the last time. This time jut two turns of the ignition put it back in my workshop.

The Fourth (and final?) Try

     I had been turning over the idea of a mechanical bonding of the the parts for awhile and now it was time to carry out that plan. I decided to drill though the casing and the metal of the key and basically bolt it together. I decided that size four hardware would be too dainty so I used #6. The head of the Philips screw would rest flush against the flat surface of the damaged plastic. Then the back cover would snap over it. Here are the steps that proved effective:

1) Insert the metal portion back into the plastic holder and reassemble the key.

2) Carefully center punch the plastic back of the key.  I used a spring-loaded punch to help center the hole in the plastic portion. Then I drilled through the back plastic part.

3) Remove the metal portion from the assembly.

4) Drill through the rest of the plastic.

5) Drill the metal part of the key. This is the tough part. The drill bit left a mark on the metal portion of the key. I punched that and used a sharp drill bit to drill a precise hole. I used a 9/64" drill bit for the hole. The #6 screw would be a close fit.

The tough part of this job is underway


6) Re-assemble the whole key and check for good alignment on the hole. Make sure the screw goes through the hole cleanly. If not remove material from either part to make it fit. Test fit the hardware.I would have to flatten the head of the screw on a bench grinder and grind out the under surface of the back of the key to make the cover snap over it.

ready for the hardware


7) Measure the length needed for the screw. I was using an acorn (or "cap") type nut so I had to be sure the length was right so it would not bottom out when tightened. Also account for plain and lock washers. In this case the nut would have to tighten against a sloping surface. I had to taper the washers on a grinder to make it sit flat and hold.

8) Cut the screw to length. I placed a nut with a back-up nut at the cut-off point. Then I put it in a vice and cut it off cleanly with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel Tool.

9) Assemble the key with the hardware fix.

Note the flattened screw head and tapered washers


10) Test. This repair is going to hold up. This key will be stronger than it originally was. I have seen a screw used in other remote access keys,



                                                 

Monday, November 21, 2016

How to replace front brake pads and rotors on a 2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt and Pontiac G6

This post covers a front end brake job an Chevrolet Cobalt and Pontiac G6 made from 2005-2010. There are likely more GM models that have the same or very similar set-up. Shown is a 2006 Cobalt.

                                                          The job at a glance
  • Tools: 19 and 15, 14mm sockets, breaker bar, ratchet, large (5") C-clamp, wire brush, rasp
  • Materials: Caliper grease, brake parts cleaner, lacquer thinner, rags, wire, dust mask. 
  • Parts: Set of brake pads and rotors.   
  • Cost of parts: ceramic pads: $24 (Car Quest)  Rotors: 35ea
  • Time: 2 hours

Removal 


1) Break the lug nuts on the front wheels (19mm), Jack up the front and remove the wheels. I like to use a floor jack on the middle of the front cross member with a 2 x 4 to spread the weight. Set down on jack stands or other supports. 

2) Clean the brake calipers and rotors with brake parts cleaner. Wear a dust mask during this part.

3) Remove the two caliper bolts with a 14mm socket and ratchet. I like to use a 3/8" socket with an adapter up to 1/2" and a half inch ratchet.

4) Remove the caliper. This one does not hold the brake pads so it will slip right off.

off comes the pad-less caliper


5) Support the caliper out of the way, by hanging it with a wire from the strut spring,

6) Retract the piston. Use the large c-clamp, with one end on the brake pad and the other on the outside of the caliper, to force the piston all the back into it's bore. Then remove the clamp and the old inboard brake pad. Check the level of the brake reservoir as you do this to prevent a messy overflow.

7) Check out the caliper pins. If they do not move freely they should be removed, cleaned and re-lubed or replaced. Check the caliper pin boots for wear and tear and replace if necessary.

Check the caliper pins for free movement and boot integrity


8) Remove the pad holders (aka the caliper mounting bracket) by removing two 15mm bolts. Be ready to apply some muscle or a large breaker bar. These are torqued pretty good.

This bracket is torqued!


9) Remove the rotor. It may be necessary to tap it loose with a hammer. If so, use a dust mask.

10) Clean the contact surface of the hub with the rotor. Use a wire brush and file to remove any rust build up. Wipe clean and lightly lube with general purpose grease to ease in future disassembly.

Take some time to clean up the surface of the hub


Installation


1) Load the caliper holder with new hardware (if desired) and pads. My pads came with new hardware so I used it. Pry off the old clips and apply some caliper grease to all contact surfaces of the new hardware for ease of assembly and quiet operation. Install hardware. Install the new pads. Again, apply caliper grease or anti-squeal compound to the part of the backing plates on the pads that will contact the face of the piston (inboard side) and the ears of the caliper (outboard side). It doesn't hurt to also apply some to the piston face and the parts of the caliper that will contact the outboard shoe. Snap the two pads into place. It may be necessary to tap them in with a few taps from a hammer and big straight blade screwdriver.



2) Check the separation of the calipers now by slipping them over the rotor. Widen the gap if necessary to fit over the rotor.

3) Mount the new or re-ground rotor. But first clean up the surface of the wheel hub with a wire brush and solvent such as lacquer thinner. A little grease on these surfaces isn't a bad idea. You may need to take the rotors off again someday! Holding the rotor in place with one lug nut sometimes is helpful during installation of the caliper.

4) Mount the now loaded pad holder. Bolt it in place with the two 15mm bolts. Snug them up evenly and alternately and torque to a sizable 80 ftlbs.

5) Bolt the caliper into place with the two 14mm caliper bolts. If you didn't retract the piston all the way earlier, do it now. A bit of fresh grease on the piston contact surface is a good idea. Torque to 25 ft lbs.

6) Repeat all steps on the passenger side.

7) Test the brake operation. I like to have a helper apply the brakes as I try to turn the hub with a screwdriver. This is also a good way to check caliper release with brakes off.

8) Jack it up and mount the wheels.


9) Test drive.