How to repair the rear disc brakes on a 2005 Scion TC or Toyota

   The problem showed up on a 2005 Scion TC as pulsing and grinding felt when braking, coming from the rear.
                                                        Disassembly
1) Block the front of the car
2) Break the rear lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar or a lug wrench.
3) Jack up the rear of the vehicle with floor jack. There is a U-Shaped piece welded onto the very middle of the crossmember that fits perfectly in the cup of a floor jack.

4) Put supports under each wheel . I used two 7” railroad ties placed right behind each wheel.
5) Lower vehicle onto supports.
6) Remove wheels.  
7) Remove lower caliper pin with 17mm socket or wrench.
8) Rotate the caliper upwards about 75 degrees and slip the caliper off the upper pin. Secure the caliper on a piece of wire and hang from the springs above, or set it securely on the frame below.
       

9)  Remove the two 14mm brake shoe bracket bolts with socket and ratchet. Remove the shoe bracket and set aside. Inspect the caliper pins for corrosion.
10) Remove the rotor and inspect for even wear and pitting. Replace or have a shop turn it if possible. The following section is for dealing with a seized pin.
11)  The problems were on the left side. Here the inboard shoe was worn almost completely down, while the outboard was nice and thick. I had a helper apply the brakes while I watched and turned the rotor. The rotor stayed locked after she released the brake pedal. Not good. There was a problem with the left upper pin. The pin is seized in it’s bore.

     I tried a dental pick and PB Blaster and then tapped on it lightly with a hammer. No. What finally worked was turning the caliper clockwise, which unthreaded the seized pin just a bit. Then I jammed a clamp between the caliper and shoe holder. I put channel-lock pliers on the raised part of the pin and  turned it counter clockwise, while the caliper was jammed against the shoe. It finally broke loose. Then I worked it back and forth while pushing it away from me and it came off.

                                                          Replacement parts
  I had the rotors turned at a machine shop attached to my local Carquest Auto Parts store, for $20 a piece. Since I was already there I went with everything from Carquest. I was told that original OEM pads are ceramic. They had Raybestos Ceramic brake pads with hardware for $52.99. These were U.S. made. The boot kit from China was about $6.59.  The caliper pin set from China was $7.29. Total parts and labor (rotor turning) cost: $114.86. Brake shop labor for one axle is typically at least $100.
                                                              Re-assembly

  This reassembly describes replacing the brake pad clips, a set of caliper pins as well as pin boots. You may not want or need to do all that.

1) Put the new or re-machined rotor in place on the hub.
2) Put the new clips in place on the pad bracket. Install four new pad clips and the anti-rattle clip that goes into the inboard side. Use the other side as a model or take a picture before disassembly.

3) Mount the pad bracket with the two 14mm bolts. If using a torque wrench it's 29 ft lbs.
4) Apply caliper grease to the backing plates of the brake pads where they contact the piston face and the the holder arms on the outboard side.
5) Retract caliper piston with a large C-clamp and a large thick washer.

6)  If replacing the caliper pins: install upper pin with 8mm allen wrench and torque to 29 ft lbs. Clean up the bore that was seized with fine grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil followed by some lacquer thinner. Use a long cotton swab to coat the inner caliper pin bore with grease. Slip the new boot over the upper caliper pin and then put down a fresh layer of caliper grease. Make sure the boot is well seated on both ends. A good seal is crucial to preventing moisture from entering and corroding the pin.

7)  Remove lower boot. It's easy to do with the upper seated. Replace.
8)  Apply a coat of caliper grease to the lower caliper pin.
9)  Bolt the lower pin back on with a 17mm socket to 29 ft lbs.
10)  Repeat above steps on the other rear brake.
11) Test correct operation if possible by having a helper apply the brake while attempting to turn the hub. Make sure it releases as well. Thank her for the use of her foot.
12) Mount the wheels and torque to 100ft lbs.
13) Test drive.

                 

                                          Here is a video of the process: