Crank no start: How to locate, remove and install the crankshaft position sensor on a 2.4L GM Quad Four

     While changing a starter in a 1997 Pontiac Grand with the 2.4L quad four engine, I had an unexpected encounter with the crankshaft position sensor. So I decided to make a blog post to show how to find, remove and install this small but important part. The 2.4L quad four engine is found in such models as the Pontiac Grand Am and Sunfire, Chevrolet Cavalier and Malibu, Oldsmobile Achieva and Alero and the Buick Skylark built between 1996 and 2002.

Troubleshooting

     With a crank, no start issue, it is good idea to check if there is any gas getting to the cylinders. Remove the coil assembly and then a spark plug from the engine and have a helper try to start the engine while looking for a sign of gas in the hole.

There is no gas getting to the cylinder

      We have no gas at all.

Location

     On the 2.4L Quad Four engine this sensor is located near the oil filter, right behind the end of the starter. It turns out that I was rather careless when pulling out the starter. I caught the wiring or plug on the starter and pulled it out of the sensor. Later, with all parts reassembled, I found to my surprise that the car would crank but not start. I found this loose disconnected plug hanging there and traced it back to this sensor.

Now where does that go?

The location of the switch, underside view

Removal

1) Jack it up and put it on ramps or stands

2) Disconnect the battery. We have to move the starter out of the way and don't want to accidentally touch the B+ terminal on something and make a big spark.

3) It is going to greatly improve access so remove the air intake ducting up to the throttle body and the cooling fan from behind the radiator. See this related blog post for pictures and instructions:
http://www.originalmechanic.com/2015/10/how-to-replace-starter-in-gm-24l-quad.html     

4) Put down a catch pan and spin out the oil filter.

5) Unbolt the starter and carefully set it down out of the way without unwiring it. The sensor will now be in plain sight and readily removable.

The crankshaft position sensor exposed

6) Unbolt the switch with an 8mm socket or wrench. Twist it back and forth while pulling it outward. 

7) My sensor is actually good but will need to have a means attached to lock the wiring in place. The little protrusion that holds the plug was damaged earlier. 

The sensor removed

Installation

1) Place the sensor back in the hole in the engine and rotate to line up with the mounting bolt.. It my be helpful to plug it in ahead of installation as this could be awkward later. 

2) Turn the 8mm bolt back in snugly. 

3) Remount the starter, being careful to avoid any contact with the switch or wiring. 

4) Remount the oil filter. Add some fresh oil if necessary.

5) Remount the cooling fan.

6) Remount the air intake assembly.

7) Remount the spark plug coil assembly if removed

8) Rewire up the battery.

9) Test start the car. 

How to replace the starter on a GM 2.2L Ecotec engine in Cobalt, Cavalier, HHR, Malibu and more

     The starter on GM's 2.2L Ecotec engine is more difficult than most to remove, owing to a hard-to- access upper mounting bolt. This post applies to many small GM cars such as the Cavalier, Cobalt, HHR, Malibu, Alero, Grand Am, Sunfire, Saturn L series and Ion and some Opel and Vauxhall cars.  I posted this tutorial with the hope of  helping the home mechanic in performing this frustrating job.
This post features a 2006 Chevy Cobalt.

                                                        The job at a glance

• Tools: floor or other jack, jack stands or wood supports, 8mm deepwell socket, 13mm socket (1/4" drive) 15mm socket and 3/8 or 1/2" ratchet, 3 and 6" extension bar 
• Materials: none
• Parts: Starter  
• Cost of parts: Starter $85- $130
• Time: 1-2 hours

Removal

1) Remove the large plastic engine cover to get a better view of the position of the upper bolt. Pull the cover free of the two ball headed posts, one at the extreme left of the cover and the other near the dipstick at the lower front. 

2) Jack up the front of the car. I used a floor jack on the front tubular cross member, with a  three foot long two by four to spread the weight of the car more evenly. Set it down on some jack stands or wood supports. 

3) Disconnect the battery with a 10mm wrench or socket. It is in the trunk. 

4) Unwire the starter. There are two connections to unwire. The small 8mm nut is the solenoid control signal and the larger 13mm uppermost is the battery plus connection.

Remove these two nuts to unwire. GM left the starter studs unprotected from the elements. 

5) Break the lower 15mm mounting bolt loose.This is the easy one. The upper bolt will more than make up for it though. 

6) Break the upper 15mm mounting bolt loose and then remove. This is the toughie. Use a three or six inch extension bar and a deep well socket fed from underneath. To find the bolt, have the socket and extension close to the engine and just probe until it seats on the bolt head. This may take a try or three. It may help to check the fit from above as the bolt head is just visable from up there in just the right light and angle.

At last, we're on the bolt. Note position of tools relative to starter and engine. 

7) Completely remove the lower starter mounting bolt.

8) Remove the starter. Mine was corroded in place. I used a large screwdriver wedged between the right end of the solenoid and the transmission to force it apart from the transmission.

There's the hole for the upper bolt

Installation

1) Affix the upper starter mounting bolt to the deep well socket. I used a piece of paperboard around the bolt head and then jammed the socket on it. This serves to hold the bolt to the socket so they don't fall apart during install. That would be very frustrating. Use a three inch extension with the deep well. Hold the bolt and tools in the upper mounting hole in the new starter as you place it in position. 

Start the upper bolt first if possible or at least hold it in place until the lower bolt is turned in to hold the starter up.

The socket and bolt are like one part going in

2) Tighten both bolts. Precision torque is not critical on a starter. 

3) Rewire the electrical connections. 

4) Remove the stands and lower the car. 

5) Install the engine cover. 

6) Connect the battery.

7) Test.

                                   

Replacing the crankshaft front oil seal on a GM 2.2L Ecotec engine in a Cavalier, Cobalt, HHR, Malibu, Grand Am, Sunfire and more

     When this seal gave way on a 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier with GM's 2.2L Ecotec engine, the leak was huge. If it's a big leak and it seems to be coming from the front (belt end) of the engine, the crankshaft front seal is the major culprit. The serpentine belt will tend to become oil soaked and throw the oil all over the bottom of the engine, so the drips will seem to be everywhere.  This repair is simple, relative to many other vehicles. It can be fixed in just a few hours. Other GM cars with this engine are the Cobalt, HHR, Malibu, Alero, Grand Am, Sunfire, Saturn L series and Ion, a well as some Opel and Vauxhall cars

                                                      The Repair Basics                                       

• Safety: Safety glasses, gloves. 
• Tools: A hydraulic or scissors jack, jack stands or substantial wood supports, 19,21 and 7 mm sockets, a 24 inch breaker bar, 3/8 and 1/2" ratchets, a pry bar or other sprocket holding tool, a small seal prying tool 
•  Parts and materials: Crankshaft front oil seal (Fel pro TCS 46112), new crankshaft pulley bolt, serpentine belt (if needed), rags, engine degreaser, grease, oil. .
•  Cost of materials: Seal $7.50 (Napa), pulley bolt $7 (GM), Serpentine belt $21 (Napa) , consumables $4.00. Total $31.50  
•  Shop labor cost for the job: $100 
•  Home mechanic estimated time: 2-3 hours   

Dis-assembly

1) Break the 19mm lug nuts on the right front tire

2) Jack up the front of the car and place on stands. Used two RR ties behind the wheel

3) Remove the right front wheel

4) Remove the right front wheel well cover. This is a complicated cover and will take awhile to get off. It is held on by 8 or ten 7mm hex screws. The topmost one is shorter. Two panel fasteners must also be removed, one by the horn in front and one way low behind the wheel. Two wires are also clipped to it, one in the front by the horn and the other along the bottom, clipped on in three places.

5) Disconnect the battery.

6) Remove the serpentine belt by moving the tensioner upward to release tension on the belt. Use a 3/8” square bar as found on a ratchet in the square hole in the tensioner arm.

7) Remove the crank bolt with a 21mm socket and 24 inch breaker bar. Jam a pry bar or other bar in an opening in the pulley and against a solid part of the car to keep the pulley (harmonic balancer) from turning.

Jam a pry bar in a spoke of the crank pulley and turn counter-clockwise

8) Remove the crank pulley. Mine slipped right off. It may be necessary to use a puller. There are three holes for a puller to be attached on the pulley.

9) Remove the bad seal. This one comes out by prying along the underside. I used a six inch long prying tool and it came out easily.

An ordinary prying tool will remove this seal

10) Thoroughly clean the belt path. An engine degreaser  and plenty of rags will help here.

Re-assembly

1) Install the new seal by pressing it in carefully. Put some grease on both sealing surfaces.  I used a 2” (OD) piece of pvc to push the seal on.

2) Re-mount the crankshaft pulley. Line up the key slot with the key in the crankshaft and seat the pulley.

3) Install a new crank shaft pulley bolt and torque to 74 foot pounds plus and additional 75 degrees of rotation. A pry bar must be inserted into the spokes of the pulley to prevent turning in the clockwise direction. This works best with two people, one holding the pry bar and the other with the torque wrench.

4) Install the serpentine belt. It runs around the outside of the alternator and AC compressor and crank pulley and then under the tensioner.

Using a 3/8" ratchet to release tension and seat the belt

5) Put the wheel well cover back on

6) Mount the wheel and just snug up the lug nuts.

7) Raise enough to remove the stand and then lower to the ground

8) Re connect the battery

9) Torque the lug nuts and test the car for leaks.

                                    

How to replace the oil pressure light switch on a GM 2.4L 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

     A large puddle of oil under the 1997 Pontiac Grand Am initially brought about a feeling of dread. Closer inspection revealed this to be a light repair. The switch that signals the oil light had sprung a leak.                                  

The job at a glance

•  Tools: 26 mm deep well socket or channel-lock pliers.
•  Materials: Napa oil pressure switch part number ECH OP6659
•  Cost of materials: $14
•  Shop cost for the job: $50-75
•  Time to complete: 5-15 minutes

1) Find the leak. This is a sudden big leak. There are many droplet points on the oil pan and behind on the under frame. Inspect for the source of the leak. There is a drop of oil hanging on an electrical connector at the top rear of the engine for a device that mounts in the front cam cover. Run the car and look for the leak. I’m looking for a fresh drop of oil to fall. Rev the car a bit and check again. Now the oil is steadily dripping out of the connector.This is the oil pressure light switch.

The oil pressure light switch

2) Unplug the device.
3) Remove it with a 26 mm deep well socket, (have one? I don't). I used a channel lock pliers.
4) Procure the replacement part.
5) Install
7) plug wires back in
8) test

Oh, and make sure you clean up the oil slick and add oil back to the crankcase. Oil comes out of this switch in a hurry!

                                                    

How to replace the front crankshaft seal and timing belt on a 2.2L Daewoo Leganza with GM made E-TEC-II DOHC engine

   The leak is from the front of the engine. This is a GM family 2.2L DOHC engine with the crankshaft pulley driving a timing belt, the two cams and the water pump. Driving the car up on ramps and removing a plastic cover, which covers the underside of the front of the engine and the right wheel well, and running the car, revealed a steady stream of oil coming from under the timing cover at the crankshaft sprocket. The front of the engine will have to be torn down to complete this seal replacement. The oil contaminated timing belt will also need to be replaced. It is not too difficult to tear this engine down to get to the belt and seal.

                                                              The Repair Basics                                         

• Safety: Safety glasses, gloves. 
• Tools: A hydraulic or scissors jack, jack stands or substantial wood supports, a  set of metric sockets and wrenches (10, 13,15,17,19 mm), a 6 mm Allen socket,  a 24 inch breaker bar, a piece of angle iron for holding the crankshaft, a two inch piece of pipe for installing the seal,  pry bars, a hammer, vice grip pliers, electric drill and a small bit, center punch and additional tools per specific job requirements.  
•  Parts and materials: Timing belt, crankshaft front oil seal, lacquer thinner, rags, grease, oil.
•  Cost of materials: Timing belt $28 (Autozone) , seal $14.75 (Napa), consumables $4.00. Total $47.75  
•  Shop labor cost for the job: $400-600. 
•  Home mechanic estimated time: 6-8 hours   

The 2.2L engine as found on the 2001 Daewoo Lagenza

1) Break the 19 mm lug nuts and jack the car up and remove the right wheel.  If the wheel well lower cover was not removed earlier, remove it now. Set a jack under a substantial support beam and raise until high enough to remove the wheel. I set the outer part of the lower control arm down on railroad ties.
2) Unsnap the air cleaner upper cover clamps. Loosen large screw clamp from the outer intake duct. Unbolt two 10mm bolts holding the  lower cover to the wheel well. On this car the lower duct does not separate from the lower air cleaner cover. It unsnaps from an assembly further down.
3) Remove the air intake duct from the throttle body (optional, removal is simple and gives more room to work). There is a hose and electrical connector that must be removed.
4) Disconnect the battery.
5) Remove the serpentine belt. With a 15 mm box end wrench on the tensioner, release the tension and pull off the belt.

Relieving tension on the serpentine belt with a 15 mm wrench

6) The right wheel well engine mount will have to be removed. Put a scissors jack under the oil pan, with a large piece of wood on the jack to distribute the load. Also add another small piece of wood to the front of the setup since the pan is greatly angled back.
7) Unbolt the engine from the mount on the right wheel well. There are three 12 mm bolts on the wheel well side and two 17mm nuts and one long 17mm bolt on the engine side of the mount that must be removed. A little tapping got the bracket loose and removed.

With the engine supported, remove the indicated fasteners from the mount bracket

8) Remove the upper timing cover. There are two self storing clamps that must be un-clamped. Then remove a 10 mm bolt holding a small plastic inner cover that fits over the engine mount. Remove the cover by pulling upward. Remove a lower 10 mm bolt just above the oil filter. The cover can now be removed through the top by flexing it and slipping it through the small gap between the brackets.
9) Remove the four 6mm Allen bolts from the crankshaft pulley and pull off the pulley. It will be necessary to hold the crank bolt to remove these.

Remove the crankshaft pulley with a 6 mm Allen socket

10) Set the engine at top dead center for cylinder 1. Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a breaker bar and 17mm socket. There is a rectangular depression on the outside of the crank sprocket that will align with a timing mark, a notch, in the lower inside timing cover. When this mark and the two camshaft sprockets are aligned at the same time, that’s top dead center.

The crankshaft sprocket aligned properly 

View of the cam sprockets in aligned position

11) Remove the timing belt. Loosen the tensioner with a 13mm socket and a ½ ratchet with adapter. Release tension by turning the arm with the hex hole counterclockwise.  Lock the cam sprockets in place with vice grip pliers.Remove the timing belt from the top to bottom. Keep all three sprockets aligned throughout this procedure.

The following steps are for replacement of the crankshaft front seal. Skip to step 20 if only replacing the timing belt.

12) Mount a piece of stout angle iron to two of the holes in the outer face of the crankshaft pulley with two of the existing bolts. The holes in the bar are 4 cm apart. Remove the crank bolt with a 17mm socket and 24 inch breaker bar with the fabricated tool jammed on the spindle, axle or block of support wood.

13) Remove the crank sprocket. This is a one piece part with the flange that has the holes for the pulley drilled in it. It is on there good. I used two pry bars, a small one deep in there under the sprocket and a larger one under the edge where the sprocket portion meets the flange portion. It took a while to work this off. At then end I went to a large “toad sticker” screwdriver and the biggest prybar.
14) There is a bushing behind the key that has to come out. Tap the key with a hammer and screwdriver and it will move up and out. Remove the inner bushing.
15) Remove the crankshaft seal. Use a punch to indent the middle bottom of the seal for drilling.  Drill a small hole through the seal. I turned in a small Philips head sheet metal screw and then a larger one . When fully seated, I used a pry tool repeatedly for maybe 5 minutes before the seal gave way. This seal was really in there. The rubber part of the seal had separated from the metal part, causing this big leak.
16) Seat the new seal with a piece of pipe and a big washer and the crankshaft bolt. I had to add the big bushing with the 3.1 cm wide piece of 2 inch diameter PVC to get the seal all the way seated. Make sure to lubricate all contact surfaces with grease. Take care to seat the inner spring loaded portion of the seal to the crankshaft mating surface before driving the seal into place.

Use the crank bolt with the outer bushing on a 3 cm piece of 2 inch PVC

Installation
17) Clean up everything in the belt path. I used cue tips on the cams and water pump pulleys and cleaned the crankshaft sprocket. Re-install the inner bushing and key back into the key way, tapping it in with a hammer.
18) Install the crank sprocket back on the crankshaft. Cleaned it up a bit first with some sandpaper. It slid right on.
19) Once again using the holding bar, torque the crank bolt to 77 ft lbs.
20) Install the timing belt. Remove the firewall side idler pulley with a 13 mm socket. Start with the belt over the crankshaft sprocket and work up the right  (radiator) side, keeping tension around the idler pulley and up and over the two cam sprockets. Then route it down to the right of the post for the removed idler and back around the water pump sprocket, then over the loosened tensioner. While putting all the slack to the right of the idler pulley post push the idler pulley into place with the belt inside and torque to 18 ft lbs. This is a tight fit.
21) Adjust the tensioner. Using the 6mm hex head slot in the adjustment arm of the tensioner, rotate it in a clockwise direction until the pointer above lines up with a notch behind it. It is useful to have a second person for this or you will be up and down a lot to get this right. When properly adjusted torque the tensioner nut to 18 ft lbs.

With the timing belt tensioner out, the pointer and notch can be readily seen

22) Rotate the engine by using a breaker bar or ratchet on the crank bolt, a minimum of two revolutions and check the timing marks again. If all marks are aligned move to the next step. If not, loosen the tensioner and re-position the belt until every thing lines up, re-tension and try again.
23) Install the large timing cover and torque the two bolts to 8 ft lbs if using a wrench.
24) Install the small timing cover with the 10 mm bolt.
25) Install the crankshaft pulley with the four 6 mm Allen bolts to 20 ft lbs.
26) Install the serpentine belt.
27) Install the engine mount. The larger 17 mm bolts toward the engine should be torqued to 38 ft lbs, the three 12 mm bolts on the wheel well to 25 ft lbs.
28) Remove the jack from under the oil pan.
29) Install the lower air cleaner cover and bolt back on with the two 10 mm bolts.
30) Snap the air cleaner and cover in place.
31) Install the air intake duct to the throttle body and the air cleaner and reconnect all hoses and electrical connections.
32) Install the the wheel well cover
33) Install the right wheel and set the vehicle back down.
34) Reconnect the battery
35) Run the engine and test for leaks.

                                         good deal

                                            for kit

                             

How to replace the right CV axle on a GM 1997 automatic transaxle Pontiac Grand Am

 The problem appeared as very strong vibration and noise coming from the right front of the car. It increased with speed. I raised the vehicle and put it on stands and had a helper run it. The right front wheel would sometimes actually stop while the left was turning. It had to be a bad right CV axle. This job is an intermediate job for the home mechanic. To get down to removing the bad axle, the front bearing and hub as well as the steering knuckle must be removed. A video of the job follows the text.
   I'm a die-hard home mechanic, not a professional. While I strive for accuracy and attention to detail in these procedures, I cannot guarantee that every step and description is flawless. If in doubt, consult a auto repair manual or the services of a professional mechanic. Above all, take your time and be safe.

The job at a glance

•   Tools: Floor and/or scissors jack to lift the front off the ground.  Jack stands or railroad ties, lug wrench, 30mm deep well socket ½” drive,  3/8” allen socket, T55 socket, a set of chisels,  hammer, torque wrench, breaker bar, 18" pipe wrench, 15 and 18mm box end wrenches, 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet, a large flat blade screwdriver, a small lug wrench.

• Parts and materials: Rebuilt CV axle by National from Carquest Auto Parts for $49.95. (August 2013), Wire hanger, an M12 X 1.75 nut.

• Savings: $150 average repair shop labor.

•  Time: 3-5 labor hours for the home mechanic.

                                                                  Disassembly
1) Break the lug nuts on the wheel.
2) Jack up the front end. I used two jacks , a floor and scissors jack under these loaf-like projections on two arms angled outward from behind the wheels. Rest the front end on some stands. I used railroad ties.

Front end is jacked up and on railroad ties

3) Remove lug nuts and take off the plastic wheel cover, if equipped. Remove wheel.
4) Put wheel back on and hand tighten a couple of lug nuts.
5) Jack up high enough to set the wheel down on a paver or wood, without removing stands.
6) Break the axle nut loose with a 30mm deep well socket and breaker bar. This is highly torqued nut. I needed a 24” breaker bar and a more than a dozen all-out grunts.

Break out the big one. This axle nut is torqued. 

7) Set the car back down on the stout supports.
8) Remove the wheel.
9) Unbolt two caliper bolts with 3/8” Allen socket. Pry off caliper. May need to use large screwdriver wedged between caliper and rotor.
10) Use a wire to hang the caliper from a strut spring.

Hang the caliper from the spring with a piece of wire

11)  Remove the rotor and set aside.
12) Unbolt the 3 hub and bearing assembly bolts with T55 socket. Must turn the hub to align the bolt with large hole in the hub so that the long bolts can be removed.

Unbolting the hub/bearing assy with a T55 socket and 1/2" ratchet

13) Now we must break the hub/bearing assembly loose from the steering knuckle. This is the fun part.  I had success after a struggle, with three chisels, pounded in near each mounting hole between the hub assembly and the steering knuckle.  I started with a ½” Craftsman Chisel, then to 5/8 and finished with larger size. As a gap grew to 1/32” I  used an 18” pipe wrench, wide open to turn the hub assembly a few degrees one way and then the other. That was it and it came out of the knuckle.

I tried a striking a pry bar with a hammer, but chisels and a pipe wrench finally broke it loose

14) Unbolt the steering knuckle from the strut. Use 21mm socket and breaker bar on the nut and hold the other end with a 15mm wrench.

Unbolt the knuckle from the strut

15) Unplug the ABS speed sensor and secure out of the way. Use a towel or rag to protect the outer CV boot. Oh, no need, that's right it's bad.
16) The only thing now holding the steering knuckle is the lower control arm ball joint. To separate it, swivel the steering knuckle to the left and move the CV axle as far left as possible. Jam a pry bar in there to hold it out of the way. Now remove the cotter pin. Mine had a pin through it that was welded to the knuckle. Nice. I used a hammer and chisel to break it out. Turn the castle nut out with a 18 mm box-end wrench.

Take off the castle nut and put an M12 X 1.75 on the stud and hammer the knuckle loose

 17)  The repair books tell you to use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. That will likely ruin the rubber boot and require a new ball joint.  Instead, spin an M12-1.75 nut (don’t use the castellated nut, it could be damaged by the hammer blows) on the ball joint stud until it is flush with the top of the stud. A few well placed blows to the nut/stud should break it loose. The steering knuckle can now be removed and the axle stands alone.

The knuckle is outta there with the lower ball joint intact.

18)  Remove the CV axle from the transaxle. It just needs to be lightly tapped out. I came in from under the front side and I was able to wedge a small (12”) lug wrench  between the inner casing of the CV axle and the end housing of the transaxle. I then tapped it from the rear with a hammer until it pulled out from the transaxle.

Carefully and lightly tap from the back on a short bar wedged between the axle and transaxle

There was no loss of fluid.  I took off the outer boot to examine the axle. The outer joint has too much free play, it’s slopped out.  I paid $49.95 for a National rebuild from Car Quest.


                                                                Installation
1) Apply a little wheel bearing grease to the transaxle where the CV axle will be inserted.
2) Protect the boots on the new axle with a shop towel. Insert it into the transaxle as far as possible. Tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer and a large screwdriver. Check the seat by pulling on the end of the inner joint where it faces the transaxle. Do NOT pull on the other end of the CV axle. It could come apart.

Using a ridge on the inner axle joint, tap the axle in till it won't go any further into the transaxle

3) Grease the outer end of the axle. If installing a new knuckle seal, this is the time. This seal is for the bearing and comes with a new bearing and hub assembly. It must be installed before the knuckle is bolted back on. If replacing only the bearing and hub assembly,  the knuckle would need to come off before this seal can be replaced. My car did not come with this seal and I did not install one.
4) This is a good time to clean up the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle with a wire brush, some sandpaper and then clean up with a solvent..
5) Mount the steering knuckle, first passing the end of the CV axle through the center opening. Then seat the bottom of the knuckle on the stud for the lower control arm ball joint.
6) Install the castellated nut back on the ball joint stud and torque to 40 ft lbs. Line up the stud hole with a castle opening. Install a new cotter pin.
7) With one hand to insert a knuckle to strut mounting bolt while pushing the knuckle downward until the holes align with the other hand. Torque them to 90 ft lbs.
8) Plug ABS speed sensor back in.
9) Mount the hub and bearing assembly. Torque the T55 bolts to 70 ft lbs.
10) This is a good time to go over the brakes for wear and at the least clean and put some fresh grease on the caliper pins.  If using the old rotor, put it in the very same position it was it when it came out. It helps to file off a bit of the outer raised ridge of the rotor so the brake pads will fit back over the rotor. Torque the caliper bolts with a 3/8” Allen socket.  If using a torque wrench it’s 38 ft lbs.
11) Mount the new axle nut and the old washer. This is big torque, 192 ft lbs. Check the wheel by turning it by hand while both are still off the ground. It should turn, but somewhat grudgingly. If it doesn’t, back off the axle nut a bit until the wheel can be turned.
12) I test drove the car on stands to make sure the right wheel turned freely with the left. Yes, it did and so quietly this time.
13) Road test drive the car. Happy and quiet motoring. Well done.

                                                                Here is a video:

How to replace the front bearing and hub assembly on a 1997 GM 2.4L Pontiac Grand Am

     A low howling sound, increasing with vehicle speed, is a sign that a right front wheel bearing is going out. This is a very doable job for the home mechanic if the bearing is replaced as part of  the hub assembly as it is on many GM cars. A video of the job follows the text and pictures.

  Tools: Floor and/or scissors jack to lift the front off the ground.  Jack stands or railroad ties, lug wrench, 30mm deep well socket ½” drive,  3/8” allen socket, T55 socket, a set of chisels, a hammer, torque wrench, breaker bar, 18" pipe wrench, a large flat blade screwdriver.

 Parts and materials: Moog bearing and Hub assembly, $62.39, Advance Auto 8/2013. Wire hanger.

 Savings: $135 average repair shop labor.

 Time: 2-4 actual labor hours for the home mechanic.

                                                                  Disassembly
1) Break lug nuts on the wheel.
2) Jack up the front end. I used two jacks , a floor and scissors jack under these loaf-like projections on two arms angled outward from behind the wheels. Rest the front end on some stands. I used railroad ties.

Front end is jacked up and on railroad ties

3) Remove lug nuts and take off the plastic wheel cover, if equipped. Remove wheel.
4) Put wheel back on and hand tighten a couple of lug nuts.
5) Jack up high enough to set the wheel down on a paver or wood, without removing stands.
6) Break the axle nut loose with a 30mm deep well socket and breaker bar. This is highly torqued nut. I needed a 24” breaker bar and a more than a dozen all-out grunts.

Break out the big one. This axle nut is torqued. 

7) Set the car back down on the stout supports.
8) Remove the wheel.
9) Unbolt two caliper bolts with 3/8” Allen socket. Pry off caliper. May need to use large screwdriver wedged between caliper and rotor.
10) Use a wire to hang the caliper from a strut spring.

Hang the caliper from the spring with a piece of wire

11)  Remove the rotor and set aside.
12) Unbolt the 3 hub and bearing assembly bolts with T55 socket. Must turn the hub to align bolt with large hole in hub so that the long bolts can be removed.

Unbolting the hub/bearing assy with a T55 socket and 1/2" ratchet

13) Now we must break the hub/bearing assembly loose from the steering knuckle. This is the fun part.  I had success after a struggle, with three chisels, pounded in near each mounting hole between the hub assembly and the steering knuckle.  I started with a ½” Craftsman Chisel, then to 5/8 and finished with larger size. As a gap grew to 1/32” I  used an 18” pipe wrench, wide open to turn the hub assembly a few degrees one way and then the other. That was it and it came out of the knuckle.

It's rusted pretty good. I tried a pry bar and hammer but chisels and a pipe wrench finally did it. 

     
                                                                  Installation

1) Clean up the mating surface in the steering knuckle with a wire brush, some coarse sandpaper and finish with a solvent, like lacquer thinner.
2) Mount the new hub and bearing assembly. It comes with an o-ring and a seal and a terrible drawing of where they go. I mounted the o-ring but had trouble with the seal. It appears to go on the inside of the steering knuckle, requiring removal of the knuckle. GM didn't use the seal at the factory and neither did I.  Be careful to line up the big hole in the hub squarely before torquing the bolt. I managed to cross thread one of them in the knuckle and I had to buy a 12 X 1.75 metric tap and fix the threads. Torque to 70 ft lbs.
                   

I'm pointing at where the o-ring goes

3) This is a good time to go over the brakes for wear and at the least clean and put some fresh grease on the caliper pins.  If using the old rotor, put it in the very same position it was it when it came out. It helps to file off a bit of the outer raised ridge of the rotor so the brake pads will fit back over the rotor. Torque the caliper bolts with a 3/8” Allen socket.  If using a torque wrench it’s 38 ft lbs.
4)  Mount the old washer and the new axle nut which comes with the bearing assembly. This is big torque, 192 ft. lbs. My torque wrench only goes to 150 ft lbs. So I gave it one more grunt with a big breaker bar and called it good. Check the wheel by turning it by hand while both wheels are still off the ground. It should turn, but somewhat grudgingly.  Interestingly, they turn in opposite directions while the car is in park.
5) Test drive. Enjoy some smooth rolling down the road.
                                                       Here is a video of this repair:

                                                         
bearing and hub assy