Tips for Winter Car Repairs

   Every year, it seems, a major repair opportunity happens in the winter here in the north land. And there it is, the dreaded puddle of oil under the 2000 Caravan. The dipstick shows nary a drop of oil. This is serious. No amount of hoping will prove the leak is from anywhere but under the timing cover. No amount of complaining about why this didn't happen in July will fix the van. So it's up on blocks in the garage with temperatures in the single digits and a pile of parts to remove. But I have a few tricks up my sleeve to get this fixed without undue suffering.

•    A garage is essential. I have heard of people doing this kind of work outside in winter but I really can't imagine it. Lacking a garage means turning the keys over to a professional.
•    Extra time is vital. Trying to rush through a repair with numb fingers is my definition of misery. I have an extra older vehicle on hand so that I have time to do a repair like this without being in a "gotta have it now" kind of hurry. For me this is a two weeks plus repair. I have other indoor work to do (like this blog) where I can warm up between stints at the van. And as cold as it has been here in Wisconsin, as long as I have the front of this engine all torn apart, I am going to replace all the seals under the timing cover, the water pump and the timing belt. I don't want to tear this apart again anytime soon. 
•    Some kind of heat source at the work-site will help speed up the work. I have a portable electric baseboard-style heater and a propane heater positioned right at the work area. I have done this sort of work without a heater and that just means a longer down time for the car. It means more frequent warm up time in the house and no work at all on extremely cold days. 
•   Wear warm clothing, especially gloves. Keeping the hands warm is vital. Have several pairs of gloves at the ready and warming up. I like to put extra gloves right on my heater so that when my hands began to get cold I can simply change gloves. I also have used a regular household oven to keep a pair toasty. Just set the oven on warm and put the gloves on a rack. Certain parts of any job require bare-hand dexterity, so a pair of warmed gloves is vital to warm the hands back up.
•   Take indoor breaks to warm up. Maybe have some hot coffee or hot chocolate.
•   Work during the warmest part of the day. I have some windows in my garage and the sun streaming in cheers me up and warms the garage, even if it is 8 degrees outside.  
• Put down a carpet remnant at the work site. It's a softer surface to work on and its warmer than the floor.

      Sure enough, despite our diligent efforts to get the needed maintenance done in warm weather, our cars sometimes still fail in the winter. Seals contract under low temperatures and leaks can occur. Don't despair though, the stubborn do-it-yourself-er can still get the job done with some extra time and determination. Good luck and keep warm.

How to fix a coolant leak at the water outlet on a 2.4L GM Pontiac Grand Am

    The coolant leak is a major one and hard to pinpoint. It appears to come from driver’s side of the engine. It continues to leak as the car is parked. Inspection reveals a very wet spot on the rear of the engine below where the water hoses exit the engine. Some dis-assembly is needed to locate the source of the leak.
1) Unplug electrical connector from the spark plug assembly.
2) Unplug electrical connector from between the valve banks
3) Unplug electrical connector from sensor in water outlet.
4) Remove large rubber air intake hose to get view of PS pump and coolant union.
The leak is now apparent at the bottom of the black plastic water outlet where it seats on the engine. The upper radiator hose exits here as well as a heater hose and an overflow from the recovery tank.

The water outlet

5) Drain coolant. Remove clamp from lower radiator  hose with vice grip pliers. Use channel lock pliers to free the stuck hose.
6) Reattach hose, clamp with screw clamp and put coolant into a bottle.
7) Strain coolant for reuse if desired.
8) Remove heater hose clamp from hose at water outlet.
8) Detach heater hose from water outlet. Used blow dryer to heat hose when it wouldn’t come off cold. Some coolant escaped.
9) Detach upper radiator hose from water outlet.
10) Remove the 10mm bolt holding mounting the overflow line just above and to the right of where it comes into the outlet.
11) Unbolt the two 10mm bolts holding the outlet to the engine.

Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the outlet

12) Pull the outlet out and disengage from the overflow line. The inner part of the outlet had deteriorated and separated from the seal, causing the leak.

The outlet disintegrated

13) Get a new water outlet. I got one from Advance Auto sold under the name Factory Air part # 85164. For $10.39. Made in China. OEM was $29. I prefer OEM in most cases, but this is hard part for the after marketers to screw up.


                                                                         Installation
1) Remove the temperature sensor from the old part. Clean the threads and apply teflon tape to the threads. Install on new outlet.
2) Install a  new o-ring on the water outlet.
3) Install a new o-ring on the return line. This is included with the replacement water outlet.
4) Clean the water outlet mating surface on the engine.
5) Insert the return line into the water outlet
6) Careful insert the outlet into it’s port on the engine. It will not seal all the way with hand pressure.
7) Hand thread the two 10mm bolts water outlet bolts.  Then alternately tighten them up with ratchets. I used a ¼” drive on the hidden one along with a 6 inch extension bar. 3/8” works on the exposed bolt.
8) Seat the heater hose on the water outlet and clamp down. I used a new 1 inch screw clamp.
9) Seat the upper radiator hose onto the water outlet. Use a new clamp.
10) Seat the heater hose and install a new clamp.
11) Re-install the air intake duct
12) Fill with coolant
13) Run engine and check for leaks.

                                                        


Here are a couple of videos I made of this job.

How to replace a rear disc brake caliper on a 2005 Scion tc

   I did the pads and rotors and pins on the 2005 Scion in August and by Nov. 15th the pads were worn out again. I am now suspicious of the caliper piston. I installed new pads and reassembled the wheel. It turns but there is a great deal less rotation than on the right rear, upon spinning the wheel by hand and releasing.
   So it is a bad caliper. They told me at Car Quest that the calipers are metal and they corrode and then stick.
 

   Disassembly
1) Block the front of the car
2) Break the rear lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar or a lug wrench.
3) Jack up the rear of the vehicle with floor jack. There is a U-Shaped piece welded onto the very middle of the crossmember that fits perfectly in the cup of a floor jack.

4) Put supports under each wheel . I used two 7” railroad ties placed right behind each wheel.
5) Lower vehicle onto supports.
6) Remove the wheel.
7) Have something ready to catch brake fluid and remove the hydraulic (banjo) fitting from the caliper with a     14mm socket.

Remove hydraulic fitting with 14mm socket.

8) Remove lower caliper pin with 17mm socket or wrench.

Removing the lower caliper pin

9)  Rotate the caliper upwards about 75 degrees and slip the caliper off the upper pin.

Swing the caliper up and then off the upper pin

10) The brake pad holder must be removed and returned for credit with the old caliper. Remove the two bolts with a 14mm socket. My pads and rotors are good at this time.

The caliper an pad bracket both go back as cores. Keep the banjo fitting.

Parts Procurement
 I located a rebuilt replacement caliper at Car Quest for $87 with exchange. It came with the bracket assembly and pins ready to go.

Reassembly

1) Transfer the pad hardware to the new bracket assembly.
2) Install the pad holder and torque to 29 ft lbs.
3) Install the brake pads.
4) Mount the new caliper by sliding it over the upper pin on the pad bracket. Seat the dust cover in the groove.
5) Bolt the lower (14mm) caliper pin and torque to 29 ft lbs.
6) Bolt the Hydraulic (banjo) fitting back on the caliper and torque to 21 ft lbs.
7) Bleed the brakes. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir if necessary. Remove the plastic bleeder cap and attach a 1/4" ID vinyl tubing. Submerge the other end of the tubing in fresh brake fluid in the bottom of small jar. While a helper depresses the brake pedal, then open the bleed port on the caliper with a 8mm wrench and let the fluid and air into the jar. Close the port and have them come off the brake. Repeat until there is no more air passing through the bleeder tubing.


         Right rear                                        Left rear
                                 

How replace auto door glass on a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

The right rear passenger door glass on a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am was shattered with a beer can  by a vandal late one recent night. I repaired it with glass from an auto scrap yard for $25.

Disassembly
1) Remove two Philips screws in the door pull.

Removing the two door pull screws

2) Remove the  hand crank. Separate with a prybar to create a gap so that the a metal retaining clip can be removed. Use a hooked tool to pull the clip out. I used a dental pick.
3) Pry off the red door reflector and remove the Philips screw beneath it.
4) Unsnap the four panel fasteners at the bottom of the door. These are wire on this car.
5) Carefully unsnap the plastic molded piece that covers the handle and the lock lever and pull it to the left.
Turn it so that it slips over the door handle.

Slip the molded piece over the door handle

6) From the outside of the door lift up the top of the big inner panel, by prying it upward with a screwdriver.
There are three downward pointing plastic holders on the panel,  that mount in rectangular cut-outs in the door.
7) Remove the entire inner panel by pulling upward.

Here is a view of the inner door panel when removed

8) Remove the metal door-pull bracket (4 Philips screws)
9) Remove the clear plastic adhesive-backed sheet.
10) Remove the horizontal inner lower window seal.
11) Pull the inner side window seal outward and remove it from the door jamb up to where it heads back down.

Prying out the window guide seal

12) Remove two Philips screws on the inside pillar of the window jamb. Remove the plastic trim piece. Be careful, it’s plastic.
13) Loosen the plastic glass holders ( they were riveted to the window glass) from the under bar with a 10mm socket and ratchet.

Go to scrapyard and remove glass from a junked car. I paid $25 for the glass.

Reassembly
1) Feed the replacement glass through the upper door, seating it in the outer rubber guide. Go to the other side and line the plastic pieces on the bottom with under rail hard ware.  Use the crank if needed to position it.  Tighten with 10mm socket.
2) Install the inner trim piece with the two Philips screws.
3) Re-seat the rubber upper and side window seal in its slot.
4) Test the window operation by temporarily reinserting the crank. If Ok continue.
5) Re-install the plastic sheeting .You may need to use a bit of silicone to hold it in place.
6) Re-install the door pull bracket with the four Philips screws.
7) Re-install the big inner door cover. Push it in place from the top, seating the three upper clips. Then re-seat the remaining panel fasteners.
8) Install the screw behind the door reflector.
9) Install the reflector.
10) Install the window crank.  Put the clip partially in place first, then seat the crank and lock the clip in place with a dental pick or right angle tool.
11) Install the two door pull screws.

Here is a video of this job:

How to replace the air filter on a 2000 3.0L Dodge Caravan

                                                 Replacing an air filter
    Replacing an air filter is a simple home mechanic maintenance job. It should be changed about once per year or every 12,000 miles for fuel economy and engine health.

The job at a glance

 Tools: a screw driver or nut driver, depending on the vehicle. Many require no tools at all.
 Materials: air filter
 Cost of materials: $5-15  $10 on average
 Shop cost for the job: usually included with other services such as a tune up or oil change.
 Savings per job : NA
 Time to complete: 5-15 minutes

                      Replacing the air filter on a 2000 3.0 L Dodge Caravan
            Replacing the air filter on this engine, like many jobs, is more difficult than most.
                                                    Disassembly
1) Remove the two 10mm bolts holding down the upper air intake assembly just above the radiator.

2) Use a long straight blade screwdriver or a nut driver to loosen the hose clamp on the 3” wide air hose under the upper air intake.

3) Use the same tool to loosen the hose clamp where the upper air intake hose meets the engine air intake plenum.
4) Remove the upper air intake assembly.

5) With your fingers unclamp the two self-storing clamps on the firewall side of the air filter housing.

6) Remove the old filter.

                                               
                                                    Reassembly
1) Install the new air filter. Fram CA 3660.
2) Seat the slots on the radiator side of the filter housing cover in the two tongues on the housing body. Pivot the cover closed and clamp the with the self-storing clamps on the firewall side.
3) Seat the lower hose of the air intake assembly over the fitting on the filter housing by pushing down and twisting a bit. Fit the other end of the assembly back on the air intake plenum.
4) Tighten the clamps.
5) Install the 10mm bolts for the upper air intake assembly.


                                  

How to repair a rust out with fiberglass and body filler

     A fiberglass rust-out repair is inexpensive and effective. I have been doing these for years and they hold up well. After two or three years some touch-up may be needed around the edges. The biggest advantage of fiberglass: it doesn't rust.

                                           The Job Basics

•  Safety: Glasses, gloves, earplugs, dust mask
•  Tools: Electric drill, drill-mounted wire brush, Drill mounted paint remover, 4” sanding disc attachment, putty knife. Hammer and chisel, scissors,
•  Materials: fiberglass kit (cloth, fiberglass resin and hardener), Body filler kit (filler and hardener), a tube of spot putty, newsprint, marker, sandpaper from coarse to very fine grit,  double sided tape, automotive primer, Auto body paint to match vehicle.
•  Materials cost: About $25- $40 dollars. Fiberglass kit: used 1/10th of $10 kit = $1. Body filler: Used 1/3 of $8 kit = $2.60. Computer matched paint from Car Quest: used 1/5th of $20 can = $4 Primer used 1/10th of $3 can= $.30
•  Shop cost: Does not apply. This job will add to the appearance and value of the vehicle when sold.
•  Time:  estimated at 3-4 hours over 2-3 days.

                                                    Rough Surface Preparation

1) Start with the putty knife and remove as much loose paint and chunks of rust as possible. Look for bulged out paint. There is rust under there. Use a chisel and hammer to remove more loose material if necessary.

That's getting ugly. Time to fix it. 

2) Attach a rotary wire brush to the drill to remove more loose paint and rust. A special paint removing drill attachment helps remove the looser  paint.
3) Expose a  inch or two of bare metal from the edge of the rust-out by sanding it off with the drill-mounted round 5 inch sanding disk and coarse sandpaper.  Parts of the damaged area that are in difficult to reach will need to be removed by hand or with a small rotary tool such as a Dremel tool. I like to use the cut-off wheel.

                                            Cover the rust out with fiberglass cloth

1) Make a pattern of the rust out to transfer to the sheet of fiberglass. Tape a sheet of paper (newsprint works well) over the rust out and mark one inch beyond the edge of the rust out with a Sharpie marker. Cut it out and then put it back over the rustout with masking tape and make any additions or cuts as needed.
Now lay the paper pattern over the fiberglass cloth and trace it with the marker. Cut out the mat with a good scissors. Tape double-sided every few inches along the entire upper edge of the rust out. Now carefully apply the top of the fiberglass cloth to the line of tape and let it hang there.

                                             

                                                  Apply resin to the fiberglass cloth
1) Check the product label for mixing instructions. My Bondo brand fiberglass kit called for 1oz (28g) of resin to 14 drops of hardener. I only need a small batch for the initial tack so I mixed 14 grams and 7 drops.
2) Try to fit the fiberglass cloth follow the contours of the panel by whatever means possible. Strips of poster board or discarded cereal boxes taped to the panel to follow the contours work well. On this repair I needed to fit the cloth all the way under the panel, all the way to the part underneath the panel.  I applied another 16g of resin and 8 drops of hardener to fill in the upper right corner of the repair area and the lower left as well. I did these areas first because there was some contour to follow there. The middle, with so much material and contour missing will then follow those areas when they are hardened. Use some odd pieces of wood to hold the contour by bracing them from underneath. Keep adding resin until the entire cloth is filled in. Total fiberglass portion: about 1 hour 15 minutes.
                                                         

                                                           
                                                               Fill in with body filler
1) Next we will fill in the surface irregularities with body filler. Follow the can instructions. Start filling in the deepest depressions first with a thin layer each time. After 20 minutes the next layer can be applied. Probably a good dozen layered applications of filler later I am done.
   

2)  Sand it as smooth as possible, following the contours of the panel.
3) Fill in the surface imperfections with spot putty.

                                                                 

Now do a final sanding on the filler with a 100 grit or finer sandpaper.

                                       Prime and paint

1) Using masking tape and newsprint paper, screen off from overspray.
2) Wipe the area to be painted with lacquer thinner on a clean cloth.
3) Spray on the primer at about 10 inches from surface. Keep the can moving.

4) Sand the primer with a fine grit sandpaper and fill in any surface imperfections with more spot .putty and sand smooth again.
5) Repeat until satisfied that the surface is smooth and ready for painting.

Apply the paint from about 10 inches away in short bursts and keep the can moving. Put on a light layer and wait a few minutes. Apply another light layer and finally a third until satisfied with the finish.

The finished repair

                    
                         

How to remove and replace seized caliper pins on a 2005 Scion tc or Toyota

       The 2005 Scion front brakes were pulsing and needed some work.                                                    


                                                          The Repair Basics                                          

• Safety: Safety glasses, gloves, ear plugs and a dust mask. 
•  Tools: A scissors jack, breaker bar,  21,17, and 14mm 1/2" drive sockets and a ratchet, a hammer, large screwdriver or chisel, .  
•  Parts and materials: Two front caliper pins and boots, caliper grease, sandpaper, lacquer thinner. A penitrent such as PB Blaster.
•  Cost of materials: Pins, $16.87,  boot kit, $12.65
•  Shop labor cost for the job: $100 on average. 
•  Home mechanic estimated time: 2-3 hours   

                             
1) Loosen the front lug nuts with a 21mm socket and a breaker bar.
2) Block the back wheels
3) Jack up front with a scissors jack. This vehicle sits so low to the ground, I couldn't get my floor jack under it. I used a scissors jack positioned at center of the cross-member, which is 25” from the inside of each tire. Place jack stands left and right.

4) With 14mm socket remove the caliper mounting bolts, not the pad bracket bolts.
5) Separate the caliper from the pad bracket. Hang it or rest it on the above.
6) Examine the pads. They are worn evenly.
7) Examine the rotors. They are acceptably smooth and even.
8) Examine the rotor pins (mounted in the pad bracket). The lower one is seized. I worked it out with back and forth with a 17mm socket and ratchet. Then I was able to get it out by clamping vice grip pliers on it and turning and pounding outward on the pliers at the same time. This was the right side . The left is seized too, but even worse and even a breaker bar and hard blows with a hammer would not dislodge it. I then turned to soaking it with PB blaster. This one is moving now, but has a ways to go and has not moved outward with the hammer and pliers.

    I got the left one out but it was a battle royal. I used large flat blade screwdrivers as a wedge to drive the pin out a bit. I cut the boot out to allow some view and access. I used a ¾ inch chisel to drive it apart further. Sprayed some blaster and turned it back and forth with a rachet. When I got the gap a bit wider I was able to clamp down a large vice grip pliers and then hammer it outward. After numerous hard blows the pin began to move. A few more blows  while twisting it and it came out
9) Remove the pads and then the pad bracket with a 17mm socket and ½” ratchet. Now clean out the bore where the pin was seized. First use a round file , then some 100 grit sandpaper wrapped around a pencil. Let it soak in solvent and then clean up good with a piece of rag. More sanding, more solvent. When satisfied put caliper grease on a long cotton swab and coat the bore.

10) Seat the new caliper boot with a 20mm socket and a few taps with a hammer. Coat the new pin with caliper grease and slide it into the bore
11) Mount the pad bracket with the 17mm bolt and torque to 39 ft lbs.
12) Mount the brake pad.
13) Mount the caliper on the bracket and torque the 14mm bolts to 29 ft lbs.  I had to hold the pin with a vice grip pliers to keep it from turning.
14) Remount the wheel and torque to 100 ftlbs.

                                

How to Install a Camco model 57521 sway control on a trailer

     I mounted a Camco sway control on my camper when I began to worry about instability on the expressway. Every time a semi tractor trailer passed it seemed as though my truck and trailer could go their own separate ways. I bought a Camco model 57521 sway control. I installed it myself at an RV park.
                   

                                                            The job at a glance

• Tools: Electric drill, tape measure, a set of drill bits, including a 11/32 drill bit, center punch, 9/16" socket and ratchet or wrench, 15/16" socket or wrench.
• Materials: Camco Model 57521 sway control. 
• Cost of materials: $67.21 from a Texas RV dealer. 
• Cost of professional install: $40
• Time for home mechanic to install: 1.5hrs

                                                               Installation

1) Measure 24 inches from the center of the receiver for the hitch ball and make a  mark on the trailer tongue.

2) Align the center of the ball on the ball plate with the 24" mark you made on the trailer tongue. 

3) Carefully mark the upper left corner hole while holding the centered plate in place. 

4) Check for wires in the channel behind the place to be drilled. Remove or move them before drilling. Drill this hole with a smaller bit or bits first and then the 11/32" bit.

5) Put the plate back on and turn in one of the self tapping bolts just enough to hold the plate up.

6) Put a level on the plate and when level mark the opposite corner hole. Center tap the hole. 

7) Remove the plate and drill the hole. 

8) Remount the plate and if it looks right, mark, tap and drill the rest of the holes. 

9) Mount the plate and snug up all six self-tapping bolts. 

10) Mount the small ball on the truck hitch with the included lock washer and torque to 100 ft lbs or good and tight, like a wheel lug nut. 

The small chrome ball goes on the hitch. Torque to 100 ft lbs.

                                                     Using the Sway Control

1) Hitch up the trailer to the truck and mount the weight distribution hitch, if applicable.

2) Loosen the sway control by turning the adjusting lever counter-clockwise. 

3) Put the sway control on the two little balls. 

4) Put the locking pins in place on both ends of the control.

5) Tighten the lever by turning clockwise until it bottoms out on the threads. Be careful not to over tighten. On sharp turns something will give, even going forward,  if it is too tight. 

    The Camco sway control worked well for me. I noticed far less effect from heavy vehicles or wind. 

Note: I always remove the sway control when backing. I was told it could be damaged if used then. 

                         

How to replace the muffler on a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan

                                  Replacing the Muffler on a 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.0L engine
 
     The savings aren't huge replacing exhaust parts, but for me it's still worth it to have control of this repair. I find that exhaust shops tend to bundle other (still good) pipes with the muffler replacement. When buying a replacement, it is worth inquiring at the auto parts store if their replacement muffler will fit on the existing OEM hanger. If not, check the cost of the hanger. They can be rather expensive. This procedure covers a way to fabricate a hanger out of basic materials. The job is much easier (but also more expensive) with an OEM muffler.
    I'm a die-hard home mechanic, not a professional. While I strive for accuracy and attention to detail in these procedures, I cannot guarantee that every step and description is flawless.  If in doubt, consult a auto repair manual or the services of a professional mechanic. Above all take your time and be safe.
 
                                                            The Repair Basics                                            

• Safety: Safety glasses, gloves, ear plugs, dust mask and a tarp to screen the fuel system off from sparks. 
•  Tools: A pair of car ramps for the back wheels at least. Two pair are even better. A angle grinder and possibly a rotary cutting tool, such as a Dremel, with a reinforced cutting wheel. A hammer and large screwdriver or chisel,  and a hacksaw may be needed. If fabricating a hanger, an electric drill, C-clamps, a round file, drill bits and a round sanding stone or similar tools may be needed. 
•  Parts and materials: Muffler, 2 and 2 ¼” exhaust clamps, a tube of exhaust sealant. If fabricating your own hanger: 14 gauge (1/16”), x 1 3/8” x 5’ flat steel with 3/8” holes drilled every ¾”, two 2 inxch long 7/16” x 14 bolts, two 7/16” x 14 nylock nuts, matching washers. Two 3/8” x ½” long bolts with nuts, washers and lockwashers. 
•  Cost of materials: $68.49 for a direct fit American-made muffler from NAPA. Muffler clamps $4.98. Sealant: used tube on hand (est $3-5). Hanger for this aftermarket muffler $34. If fabricating a hanger: Strap steel $6.60, hardware $2.71. 
•  Shop labor cost for the job: $50-75. 
•  Home mechanic estimated time: 2-3 hours   

                                                   Removal of the old muffler

  Put a barrier between the gas tank and the muffler to keep sparks away from the fuel tank and lines. I pinned up a tarp.
1) Cut off the clamp on the upstream side of the muffler. I used a 4 1/2" angle grinder to cut through the width of the clamp. Just cut the sixteenth of an inch or so of the clamp. Then I used a hammer and large flat screwdriver to pry the clamp off.

Note the tarp for a barrier for stray sparks from the cuttting

2) The muffler, pipe downstream of it and the resonator and tailpipe are one piece on this vehicle. Your van may be different. I had to cut the downstream pipe off just past the weld to the muffler, as it will be re-used with the new muffler. Using the angle grinder I was able to cut off the lower 60% of the pipe. I removed the rest with a reciprocating saw (name brand “Sawzall”). A hacksaw can also be used.

3) Unclamp the muffler hanger. I used a 1/2" wrench on the bolt. It snapped off. At this point I expected to re-use the hanger, so I cut the nut off that was welded to the lower steel strap of the hanger. I used a Dremel
rotary tool with a reinforced cut-off wheel. Then I removed it with a hammer and chisel.

4) Remove the muffler. The only thing left to do is to separate the muffler from the upstream exhaust pipe. On this van there was already a 3 inch slot in the muffler pipe. I used a hammer and chisel to separate that gap further with a prying motion. Then I cut the remainder of the overlap with a rotary tool, taking care not to cut into the upstream exhaust pipe below. Then I used the chisel again to separate and bend the muffler pipe portion upward till it was freed from the other pipe. Now the muffler could be pulled through.

6) The original factory clamp did not fit my aftermarket muffler.  It is a very rigid clamp, the lower portion particularly. The replacement muffler is much more pancaked. This is something worth asking the parts store before purchasing the muffler. The hanger is $34.95. The muffler cost $68.

7) I decided to fabricate a hanger. This section may be useful if you want to tackle that. I bought some 14 gauge steel flat stock, 1 3/8” wide with 3/8” holes every 3/4 inch. I cut two pieces 24 inches long and formed them around the muffler.

 Mark them at the muffler side seam and bend in a vice so the ends stick out at right angles from the edge of the muffler. Now put a bolt, nut and lock washer through the holes nearest the muffler.

   Now we need to determine where the ends of the straps need to be bent to mount to the outside of the existing rubber hangers on the van. So put the muffler in place, seating the pipes on both ends and mark where the straps need to be bent. Bent the straps and go under and mount the muffler again to mark where the hole for the mounting bolt will be drilled. Drill the hole and do the final mount on the muffler. I wanted the use both thicknesses of strap so the hanger would be strong, so I clamped the two pieces and used a drill stone and round file to make the holes align. Then I drilled through both straps to the final 3/8” diameter for the bolt.

                                                                        Installation
1) Use a file or wire brush and lacquer thinner to clean up the contact surfaces on the existing pipes where they will fit inside the new muffler.
2) Apply a generous layer (1/4") of muffler and pipe sealant to the mating surfaces of the old pipes.
3) Fit the new muffler over the upsteam pipe first and then seat the tail piece pipe inside the downstream end.

4) Remount the hanger. If able to use the existing hanger, put a new nut and bolt on the clamping side and torque it down. If using a fabricated hanger, run a 2 inch bolt and washer through the rubber hanger from the muffler side and thread on the locking (“Nylock”) nut. Torque it till the rubber begins to be squeezed. Repeat on inboard side.
5) Mount the 2 ¼” clamp to the upstream pipe joint.
6) Mount the 2 inch clamp to the downstream pipe joint.
7) Allow the sealant to dry for a while (optional).
8) Run it and test for leaks and enjoy the peace and quiet.


Here are some videos of the process:                Part 1

Part2

Part 3

How to replace the spark plugs on 2000 3.0L Dodge Caravan

                                                       

   A drop off in gas mileage is a sign that the spark plugs may need replacement. This is not a difficult job on most vehicles but can be a challenge on some, including the Dodge Caravan. On this engine it is an excellent idea to use Iridium spark plugs, which last 100,000 miles.

 Tools: Spark plug socket, spark plug gap tool, 3 inch socket extensions, 3/8 and ½” drive ratchets, offset needle nose pliers, channel-lock pliers.
 Materials: Spark plugs, motor oil
 Cost of materials: $1.79 each for 6 plugs
 Shop cost for the job: $20- 40. $30 on average
 Time to complete: several hours on this van. Many cars can be done in well under an hour.

                                Replacing spark plugs on a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.0 L
    Drive the van up on ramps. One plug on the rear cylinder is very difficult to reach from the top of the engine.
Front cylinder
1) Pull off the plug wires. Often the wire, from heat and time, is stuck to the plug. Use a channel lock pliers in a rocking motion to break the wire seal on the plug. Then leverage the pliers against the valve cover to pull them off. Mark at least two of the wires to be certain of proper re-position.

Use a rocking motion with channel locks and use leverage against the valve cover to pull off the wire

2) Remove plugs. On the far left (passenger) side, a 3-inch socket extension along with a 3/8 to ½ inch adapter and a ½” drive ratchet worked well. On the middle plug, the dipstick and cooling fan intrude and a 3 inch extension and a 3/8” ratchet works well. On the right plug, a 3/8” ratchet and a short cheater bar did the trick.    
3) Gap the new plugs. The gap is 1.1 mm. The Champion plugs I used were close but needed adjustment. Use the gap tool spreader to open the gap wider than desired. Then with the ground end down on a workbench, slip the gap tool between the electrode and the ground and push down on the plug.

 

4) Install the plugs. Put a drop of motor oil on the threads and torque them good and snug, but not too tight. Twenty foot pounds is plenty. You might be the one removing these again.
Rear Cylinder  (this is not fun)
     The left rear spark plug is under the alternator and behind a bracket. It is very difficult to reach from above and only a bit better from underneath. The middle and right one can be replaced from above, though the ergonomics are awful. Now you see why we have the van on ramps.

1) Starting on the right (driver's side) rear, there'e room to reach an arm down in there from above and get a channel lock pliers on the wire, twist it a bit and pull it out. I recommend using a wrist support to prevent an injury from poor ergonomics here. I injured mine doing just such a job some years ago. Mark it and do the middle one the same way. The plugs will come out from above with the same tools used on the front cylinder.
2) Now for the far left (passenger side) plug. From underneath I got a channel lock pliers around the thick part of the plug wire by going in from the left over the exhaust pipe and getting on it. I couldn't get it off from underneath, so I left the pliers in place and wrenched it free from the top.

The passenger side plug is behind a bracket and accessible (barely) from underneath

3) To remove the plug itself, I got the spark plug socket on the plug from the top; but I have long arms. If you try it this way, put a towel over the wiring and components to protect your arm. I got on the plug from above with the spark plug socket followed by a a ½ to 3/8” socket reducer and a ½” drive socket. The total length of the tools is 4 ½ inches.  I turned it and turned it but still did not have the plug out. I had to work from underneath to finish the removal, just squeezing my arm through a narrow gap to the right (passenger) side of the exhaust pipe. I added a 2 inch extension, got it on the spark plug socket and it turned out.

4) Re installation. From underneath I was able to get my 4 1/2 inch tool up in there to mount the plug. Put the plug in the socket and attach the 3/8 to ½ adapter. Turn the plug in as far as possible with by hand, Take frequent breaks when you arms get tired. Now seat the plug. I had to use both arms, one snaked in on either side of the exhaust. Tighten it up.

     We're not done yet, oh no. The socket usually sticks to the plug owing to the rubber holder inside. I finally got the socket out from the bottom with the offset needle nose pliers. The plug wires were nothing really. Do them from under the vehicle. The tough one was a bit harder but I was able to seat it with the help of a channel lock pliers.
Note for future reference: If the alternator ever has to come out, for any reason at all, change that left rear plug at that time. It also might be smart to put high end iridium plugs in there. They have 3 times the life of standard copper. I thought of that too late.

  Iridium plugs



Here is a video:

Replacing the serpentine belt on a 3.0L Dodge Caravan

                   How to Replace the Serpentine Belt on a 3.0L Dodge Caravan 

    Though changing a belt is an infrequent repair, it’s a good idea to inspect them often for wear. Serpentine belts, with their complex routing, can be a challenge to replace.  It’s not a bad idea to carry a replacement in your vehicle as well as any tools needed to replace it.
     I'm a die-hard home mechanic, not a professional. While I strive for accuracy and attention to detail in these procedures, I cannot guarantee that every step and description is flawless.  If in doubt, consult a auto repair manual or the services of a professional mechanic. Above all, take your time and be safe.


                                                 The repair at a glance

•  Tools: a 10 inch long, 15mm double box-end wrench works best for the belt tensioner. A stubby screwdriver to hold the tensioner in place is helpful.
•  Parts and materials: A replacement belt. A diagram or picture of how it is routed is very helpful.
•  Cost of materials: $25-30 per belt.
•  Average shop cost for the job: $30
•  Time: less than 1 hour.

                       
                                                         Removal
1) Disconnect the battery with a 10mm wrench for safety.
2) Loosen the 15mm AC belt adjuster pulley nut.

3)  Turn the 13mm tension adjustment nut of the AC belt counter-clockwise to take tension off the belt

A swivel adapter will help get around the upper radiator hose

4) Remove the AC belt.
5) Put a 10 inch long, 15mm double box-end wrench on the tensioner nut ( right below the alternator pulley). Push downward on the wrench and slip the belt off the tensioner.

Releasing tension on the serpentine belt

6) Remove the old belt from the van.

                                                    Installation
1)  There should be a diagram sticker on the engine. Route the new belt under the crankshaft and power steering pulleys first. While keeping it on them, pull up on the belt between them and slip it over the tensioner pulley.
2) Put the 15mm wrench on the tensioner pulley nut, as close to vertical as possible, and push down as far as it will go, while with the other hand looping the belt over the alternator pulley. It helps to stick a stubby screwdriver in the engine mount to hold tension while doing this. I have also used a 2 1/2" "S" hook to hold tension with the mount. This will likely take a few tries and cuss words to get seated.

A stubby stuck in the engine mount can help hold tension

4) Reinstall the AC belt and cinch it up with the 13mm adjustment nut. Lock it in with the 15mm pulley nut.
5) Reconnect the battery and test it.

             serpentine belt                   ac belt
                     

How to replace the right CV axle on a GM 1997 automatic transaxle Pontiac Grand Am

 The problem appeared as very strong vibration and noise coming from the right front of the car. It increased with speed. I raised the vehicle and put it on stands and had a helper run it. The right front wheel would sometimes actually stop while the left was turning. It had to be a bad right CV axle. This job is an intermediate job for the home mechanic. To get down to removing the bad axle, the front bearing and hub as well as the steering knuckle must be removed. A video of the job follows the text.
   I'm a die-hard home mechanic, not a professional. While I strive for accuracy and attention to detail in these procedures, I cannot guarantee that every step and description is flawless. If in doubt, consult a auto repair manual or the services of a professional mechanic. Above all, take your time and be safe.

The job at a glance

•   Tools: Floor and/or scissors jack to lift the front off the ground.  Jack stands or railroad ties, lug wrench, 30mm deep well socket ½” drive,  3/8” allen socket, T55 socket, a set of chisels,  hammer, torque wrench, breaker bar, 18" pipe wrench, 15 and 18mm box end wrenches, 21mm socket and 1/2" drive ratchet, a large flat blade screwdriver, a small lug wrench.

• Parts and materials: Rebuilt CV axle by National from Carquest Auto Parts for $49.95. (August 2013), Wire hanger, an M12 X 1.75 nut.

• Savings: $150 average repair shop labor.

•  Time: 3-5 labor hours for the home mechanic.

                                                                  Disassembly
1) Break the lug nuts on the wheel.
2) Jack up the front end. I used two jacks , a floor and scissors jack under these loaf-like projections on two arms angled outward from behind the wheels. Rest the front end on some stands. I used railroad ties.

Front end is jacked up and on railroad ties

3) Remove lug nuts and take off the plastic wheel cover, if equipped. Remove wheel.
4) Put wheel back on and hand tighten a couple of lug nuts.
5) Jack up high enough to set the wheel down on a paver or wood, without removing stands.
6) Break the axle nut loose with a 30mm deep well socket and breaker bar. This is highly torqued nut. I needed a 24” breaker bar and a more than a dozen all-out grunts.

Break out the big one. This axle nut is torqued. 

7) Set the car back down on the stout supports.
8) Remove the wheel.
9) Unbolt two caliper bolts with 3/8” Allen socket. Pry off caliper. May need to use large screwdriver wedged between caliper and rotor.
10) Use a wire to hang the caliper from a strut spring.

Hang the caliper from the spring with a piece of wire

11)  Remove the rotor and set aside.
12) Unbolt the 3 hub and bearing assembly bolts with T55 socket. Must turn the hub to align the bolt with large hole in the hub so that the long bolts can be removed.

Unbolting the hub/bearing assy with a T55 socket and 1/2" ratchet

13) Now we must break the hub/bearing assembly loose from the steering knuckle. This is the fun part.  I had success after a struggle, with three chisels, pounded in near each mounting hole between the hub assembly and the steering knuckle.  I started with a ½” Craftsman Chisel, then to 5/8 and finished with larger size. As a gap grew to 1/32” I  used an 18” pipe wrench, wide open to turn the hub assembly a few degrees one way and then the other. That was it and it came out of the knuckle.

I tried a striking a pry bar with a hammer, but chisels and a pipe wrench finally broke it loose

14) Unbolt the steering knuckle from the strut. Use 21mm socket and breaker bar on the nut and hold the other end with a 15mm wrench.

Unbolt the knuckle from the strut

15) Unplug the ABS speed sensor and secure out of the way. Use a towel or rag to protect the outer CV boot. Oh, no need, that's right it's bad.
16) The only thing now holding the steering knuckle is the lower control arm ball joint. To separate it, swivel the steering knuckle to the left and move the CV axle as far left as possible. Jam a pry bar in there to hold it out of the way. Now remove the cotter pin. Mine had a pin through it that was welded to the knuckle. Nice. I used a hammer and chisel to break it out. Turn the castle nut out with a 18 mm box-end wrench.

Take off the castle nut and put an M12 X 1.75 on the stud and hammer the knuckle loose

 17)  The repair books tell you to use a pickle fork to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. That will likely ruin the rubber boot and require a new ball joint.  Instead, spin an M12-1.75 nut (don’t use the castellated nut, it could be damaged by the hammer blows) on the ball joint stud until it is flush with the top of the stud. A few well placed blows to the nut/stud should break it loose. The steering knuckle can now be removed and the axle stands alone.

The knuckle is outta there with the lower ball joint intact.

18)  Remove the CV axle from the transaxle. It just needs to be lightly tapped out. I came in from under the front side and I was able to wedge a small (12”) lug wrench  between the inner casing of the CV axle and the end housing of the transaxle. I then tapped it from the rear with a hammer until it pulled out from the transaxle.

Carefully and lightly tap from the back on a short bar wedged between the axle and transaxle

There was no loss of fluid.  I took off the outer boot to examine the axle. The outer joint has too much free play, it’s slopped out.  I paid $49.95 for a National rebuild from Car Quest.


                                                                Installation
1) Apply a little wheel bearing grease to the transaxle where the CV axle will be inserted.
2) Protect the boots on the new axle with a shop towel. Insert it into the transaxle as far as possible. Tap it in the rest of the way with a hammer and a large screwdriver. Check the seat by pulling on the end of the inner joint where it faces the transaxle. Do NOT pull on the other end of the CV axle. It could come apart.

Using a ridge on the inner axle joint, tap the axle in till it won't go any further into the transaxle

3) Grease the outer end of the axle. If installing a new knuckle seal, this is the time. This seal is for the bearing and comes with a new bearing and hub assembly. It must be installed before the knuckle is bolted back on. If replacing only the bearing and hub assembly,  the knuckle would need to come off before this seal can be replaced. My car did not come with this seal and I did not install one.
4) This is a good time to clean up the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle with a wire brush, some sandpaper and then clean up with a solvent..
5) Mount the steering knuckle, first passing the end of the CV axle through the center opening. Then seat the bottom of the knuckle on the stud for the lower control arm ball joint.
6) Install the castellated nut back on the ball joint stud and torque to 40 ft lbs. Line up the stud hole with a castle opening. Install a new cotter pin.
7) With one hand to insert a knuckle to strut mounting bolt while pushing the knuckle downward until the holes align with the other hand. Torque them to 90 ft lbs.
8) Plug ABS speed sensor back in.
9) Mount the hub and bearing assembly. Torque the T55 bolts to 70 ft lbs.
10) This is a good time to go over the brakes for wear and at the least clean and put some fresh grease on the caliper pins.  If using the old rotor, put it in the very same position it was it when it came out. It helps to file off a bit of the outer raised ridge of the rotor so the brake pads will fit back over the rotor. Torque the caliper bolts with a 3/8” Allen socket.  If using a torque wrench it’s 38 ft lbs.
11) Mount the new axle nut and the old washer. This is big torque, 192 ft lbs. Check the wheel by turning it by hand while both are still off the ground. It should turn, but somewhat grudgingly. If it doesn’t, back off the axle nut a bit until the wheel can be turned.
12) I test drove the car on stands to make sure the right wheel turned freely with the left. Yes, it did and so quietly this time.
13) Road test drive the car. Happy and quiet motoring. Well done.

                                                                Here is a video: